Víknaslóðir: East Iceland's Coastal Wilderness Trail

In the remote Eastfjords of Iceland, where tourism's reach weakens and nature reclaims its primacy, the Víknaslóðir hiking trail offers one of the country's most spectacular yet challenging coastal wilderness experiences. This 150-kilometre network of ancient paths traces the dramatic coastline between Borgarfjörður eystri and Seyðisfjörður, following routes once used by farmers, fishermen, and rescue teams navigating some of Iceland's most treacherous terrain.

The Víknaslóðir—literally "bay paths"—represents Iceland's longest marked hiking trail and arguably its most demanding. Unlike the well-trodden paths of the Laugavegur or Fimmvörðuháls, this trail system demands genuine wilderness experience, offering no mountain huts, limited rescue access, and weather conditions that can deteriorate without warning. For experienced hikers seeking authentic isolation in Iceland's most pristine coastal landscape, few trails compare.

## The Route System

The Víknaslóðir comprises multiple interconnected routes rather than a single linear trail. The main coastal path stretches 77 kilometres from Borgarfjörður eystri to Loðmundarfjörður, whilst the full network extends south through Breiðdalsvík to conclude in Stöðvarfjörður. Most hikers tackle sections rather than the complete route, with the northern coastal segment from Borgarfjörður eystri to Húsavík (35 kilometres) representing the trail's most spectacular and accessible portion.

The trail follows ancient trading routes and rescue paths established centuries ago when coastal communities relied on overland connections during harsh winters when sea travel became impossible. These historical paths wind through some of Iceland's most dramatic topography: towering sea cliffs exceeding 600 metres, pristine beaches accessible only on foot, and valleys carved by glacial action over millennia.

Key waypoints include the abandoned settlement of Húsavík—not to be confused with the whale-watching town in North Iceland—where stone foundations mark one of Iceland's most remote farming communities, operational until 1951. The trail continues through Brúnavík, where a small emergency shelter provides the only indoor refuge along the entire coastal section.

## Geological Splendour and Wildlife

The Víknaslóðir traverses terrain shaped by 15 million years of volcanic activity, glacial erosion, and coastal weathering. The Eastfjords represent Iceland's oldest exposed bedrock, with rhyolite and basalt formations creating the dramatic colour contrasts visible throughout the hike. The trail passes beneath Dyrfjöll mountain (1,136 metres), whose distinctive twin peaks dominate the eastern skyline and serve as crucial navigation landmarks in poor visibility.

Wildlife encounters define much of the Víknaslóðir experience. The coastal cliffs support Iceland's largest seabird colonies outside Westman Islands, with guillemots, razorbills, and kittiwakes nesting in numbers exceeding 100,000 during peak summer months. Puffins colonise accessible cliff tops between June and August, whilst Arctic terns patrol inland sections with characteristic aggression during nesting season.

Reindeer herds, Iceland's only native wild mammal, frequent the inland valleys and plateaus traversed by the southern trail sections. These animals, introduced from Norway in the 18th century, now number approximately 7,000 across East Iceland, with encounters most likely during autumn migration periods between September and October.

## Trail Conditions and Safety

The Víknaslóðir demands respect and preparation. Weather conditions change rapidly, with fog rolling inland from the sea within minutes, transforming straightforward navigation into complex route-finding. The coastal sections offer limited shelter, whilst inland plateaus expose hikers to fierce katabatic winds exceeding 100 kilometres per hour during storms.

River crossings present serious challenges, particularly the unbridged streams flowing into Húsavík and Brúnavík. Spring snowmelt and autumn storms can render these crossings dangerous or impossible, with helicopter rescue the only evacuation option from much of the trail. The Icelandic Rescue Service (ICE-SAR) strongly recommends carrying satellite communication devices and registering detailed itineraries at www.safetravel.is before attempting any section.

Trail markings consist of orange-painted stakes and stone cairns, but vegetation can obscure markers, whilst winter storms regularly topple stakes. GPS navigation skills are essential, with detailed maps available from Landmælingar Íslands (National Survey of Iceland) for 2,890 ISK (approximately £17).

## Planning Your Hike

The hiking season extends from mid-June through mid-September, with July and August offering the most stable conditions. However, even summer weather remains unpredictable, with temperatures ranging from 5°C to 18°C and precipitation possible on any day. Snow can fall above 400 metres throughout summer, whilst autumn brings spectacular aurora displays for night hikers.

Most hikers establish base camps in Borgarfjörður eystri, where Álfacafé provides meals and basic supplies, whilst Fjarðarsel Hostel offers accommodation from 6,500 ISK per night (£39). The village features Iceland's only turf church still holding regular services, plus extensive puffin colonies accessible via short day hikes.

Water sources occur regularly along the coastal sections, flowing directly from snowfields and springs. However, inland plateaus feature limited fresh water, particularly during dry spells. Experienced hikers carry water purification tablets despite Iceland's generally pristine water quality.

## Getting There

Borgarfjörður eystri lies 70 kilometres northeast of Egilsstaðir via Route 94, with the final 19 kilometres following a narrow gravel road requiring careful driving. Public transport operates sporadically, with Austfjarðaleið buses running twice weekly during summer months for 2,200 ISK (£13) from Egilsstaðir.

Most hikers arrange pickup services or position vehicles at both ends of their planned section. Car rental agencies in Egilsstaðir provide 4WD vehicles suitable for accessing trailheads, though standard cars manage the Borgarfjörður eystri approach in good conditions.

The Víknaslóðir rewards prepared hikers with Iceland's most pristine coastal wilderness experience, combining dramatic landscapes, rich wildlife, and profound solitude. This trail demands respect, preparation, and genuine wilderness skills, but offers encounters with Iceland's raw natural power found nowhere else in the country.

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