Víknaslóðir: East Iceland's Coastal Wilderness

Along Iceland's dramatic eastern coastline, where the North Atlantic crashes against ancient basalt cliffs and glacial valleys carve deep fjords into the landscape, lies one of the country's most spectacular yet overlooked hiking destinations. Víknaslóðir—literally "the paths of the bays"—stretches for 150 kilometres between Borgarfjörður eystri and Bakkagerði, offering seasoned hikers an extraordinary journey through pristine coastal wilderness that remains largely untouched by mass tourism.

This remote trail system traverses some of Europe's most dramatic coastline, where 400-million-year-old rhyolite mountains meet the sea in a symphony of rust-red peaks, emerald valleys, and black sand beaches. Unlike Iceland's more famous hiking circuits, Víknaslóðir demands respect, preparation, and a genuine love for raw, uncompromising wilderness.

## The Geological Marvel of East Iceland's Coast

The Víknaslóðir trail system showcases the extraordinary geological diversity that makes East Iceland unique. The region's foundation lies in the Tertiary basalt formations that dominate much of eastern Iceland, but it's the spectacular rhyolite intrusions that steal the show. These ancient volcanic rocks, ranging in colour from deep burgundy to golden yellow, create some of Iceland's most photogenic mountain landscapes.

The trail passes through several distinct geological zones, each telling a different chapter in Iceland's volcanic story. Near Borgarfjörður eystri, hikers encounter the famous Dyrfjöll mountains, where the distinctive twin peaks of Ytra-Dyrfjall (1,135 metres) and Innra-Dyrfjall (1,173 metres) frame dramatic mountain passes carved by Ice Age glaciers.

Further north, the landscape transitions into the Víknafjöll range, where active geothermal areas still bubble and steam, remnants of the volcanic activity that shaped this coast over millions of years. The contrast between the warm, mineral-stained earth of these geothermal zones and the cold, grey North Atlantic creates an otherworldly atmosphere that few places on Earth can match.

## Planning Your Víknaslóðir Adventure

Getting There and When to Go

The Víknaslóðir trail system is accessible from two main starting points. The southern access begins in Borgarfjörður eystri, reached via Route 94 from Egilsstaðir—a 70-kilometre drive that includes some challenging mountain passes. The northern trailhead at Bakkagerði requires a longer approach via Route 85 and the winding coastal road through Vopnafjörður.

The hiking season runs from late June through early September, with July and August offering the most stable weather conditions. Even during peak summer, temperatures rarely exceed 15°C, and sudden weather changes are common. Snow can linger in high passes until mid-July, while September brings the first hints of winter storms that make the exposed coastal sections particularly treacherous.

Trail Options and Difficulty

Víknaslóðir offers several hiking options, from day walks to a challenging 8-day complete traverse. The full trail covers approximately 150 kilometres with a cumulative elevation gain of over 3,000 metres, making it suitable only for experienced hikers with solid wilderness skills.

The most popular section runs from Loðmundarfjörður to Seyðisfjörður, a 4-day, 65-kilometre trek that captures the essence of the coastal wilderness without requiring the full commitment of the complete traverse. This section includes the trail's most spectacular highlights: the abandoned Sandfell lighthouse, the dramatic sea cliffs of Húsavík (not to be confused with the northern town), and the otherworldly landscape around Stórurð, where massive boulders create a natural amphitheatre filled with turquoise pools.

Day hikers shouldn't miss the 12-kilometre round trip to Stórurð from the Vatnsskarð parking area—a moderate hike that rewards visitors with one of Iceland's most photographed natural wonders. The trail gains 400 metres of elevation through a landscape of rhyolite peaks and glacial valleys before reaching the boulder field that has become synonymous with East Iceland's raw beauty.

Accommodation and Logistics

Unlike Iceland's more developed hiking areas, Víknaslóðir offers limited accommodation options, making careful planning essential. The Borgarfjörður eystri area has several guesthouses, including the well-regarded Alf & Diddý Guesthouse (from 18,000 ISK/€125 per night for a double room). In Bakkagerði, accommodation options are limited to a few private guesthouses and the basic but functional Bakkagerði Guesthouse (from 15,000 ISK/€105 per night).

For the full trail experience, wild camping is necessary and legal throughout the area, though hikers must follow Leave No Trace principles strictly. Several mountain huts provide shelter along the route, including the Loðmundarfjörður hut and facilities at Húsavík, but these require advance booking through the Icelandic Touring Association (from 4,500 ISK/€31 per night for members).

## Wildlife and Natural Wonders

Víknaslóðir's isolation has created a sanctuary for some of Iceland's most remarkable wildlife. The coastal cliffs support Iceland's largest puffin colonies outside of Westman Islands, with an estimated 100,000 breeding pairs returning each summer. The optimum viewing period runs from mid-June through early August, when these charismatic seabirds are most active around their clifftop nesting sites.

Arctic foxes, Iceland's only native terrestrial mammal, thrive in this remote environment. The East Iceland population includes both the common white morph and the rarer blue morph, distinguished by their greyish-blue summer coats. Patient hikers often spot these adaptable predators hunting along the coastal areas, particularly during early morning and evening hours.

The region's plant life demonstrates remarkable adaptation to the harsh coastal environment. The rare Icelandic poppy (*Papaver nudicaule*) blooms in protected valleys, while extensive crowberry heaths carpet the hillsides in late summer. In the geothermally active areas, specialised plant communities thrive in the mineral-rich soils, creating micro-ecosystems found nowhere else in Iceland.

## Challenges and Safety Considerations

Víknaslóðir demands serious preparation and respect for Iceland's notoriously unpredictable weather. The exposed coastal sections offer no shelter from Atlantic storms, and conditions can deteriorate rapidly from calm summer weather to near-Arctic conditions within hours.

Navigation requires solid map and compass skills, as sections of the trail are poorly marked and GPS signals can be unreliable in the deep valleys. River crossings present particular challenges during periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, when normally benign streams can become dangerous torrents.

Weather-related rescue operations are costly in this remote area, with helicopter evacuation fees exceeding 500,000 ISK (€3,500). Comprehensive travel insurance covering high-risk hiking activities is essential, as is carrying emergency communication equipment such as a satellite messenger or personal locator beacon.

The remoteness that makes Víknaslóðir special also means that self-sufficiency is paramount. The nearest medical facilities are in Egilsstaðir, over 100 kilometres from some sections of the trail, making proper first aid training and equipment crucial for any serious attempt at the longer routes.

## A Wilderness Worth Protecting

Víknaslóðir represents everything that makes Iceland's wilderness special: dramatic landscapes shaped by fire and ice, wildlife thriving in harsh conditions, and the profound sense of solitude that comes from genuine remoteness. For experienced hikers seeking an alternative to Iceland's increasingly crowded highlights, this coastal wilderness offers an authentic encounter with one of Europe's last great wild places.

The trail's difficulty and remoteness ensure it remains a destination for serious outdoor enthusiasts rather than casual tourists, helping preserve the pristine character that makes Víknaslóðir so special. Those who make the effort to explore these coastal paths will find themselves rewarded with memories of a landscape where the raw power of nature still reigns supreme, unmarked by human interference and unchanged by the passage of time.

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