Trail Running in Iceland: Where to Race the Midnight Sun

Iceland's dramatic landscapes transform trail running from mere exercise into an otherworldly experience. Between mid-May and late July, the midnight sun casts ethereal light across volcanic terrain, creating conditions that blur the line between reality and dreams. For runners seeking adventure beyond conventional trails, Iceland offers routes that traverse ancient lava fields, skirt powerful waterfalls, and wind through valleys carved by glacial giants.

The Magic of Midnight Sun Running

Running beneath Iceland's midnight sun delivers an experience unlike anywhere else on Earth. Between 21 May and 22 July, the sun barely sets in Reykjavík, whilst in the Westfjords, it remains visible above the horizon for weeks. This creates a surreal golden hour that can last for hours, bathing the landscape in warm, honeyed light that photographers and runners alike find irresistible.

The constant daylight eliminates the typical constraints of dawn and dusk training schedules. You might find yourself setting off at 23:00, running through landscapes that glow like they're lit by a film crew, returning home as the sun hovers just above the horizon at 02:00. The experience challenges your circadian rhythms whilst rewarding you with solitude on trails that see crowds during conventional daylight hours.

Essential Trail Running Routes

Reykjadalur Valley: Steam and Geothermal Wonders

Located 45 kilometres from Reykjavík near Hveragerði, Reykjadalur Valley offers one of Iceland's most accessible geothermal trail running experiences. The 6-kilometre route to the hot springs follows a well-marked path that gains 200 metres of elevation through a landscape punctuated by steaming vents and bubbling mud pools.

The trail begins from the car park at Reykjadalur (GPS: 64.0078° N, 21.1981° W) and follows the Varmá River upstream. Wooden boardwalks protect both runners and the fragile geothermal features during the most active sections. The reward at the trail's end is a natural hot river where you can cool down with a therapeutic soak—bring a towel and swimwear.

Access via Route 1 to Hveragerði, then follow signs to Reykjadalur. Parking costs 750 ISK (€5) per day. The route remains runnable year-round, though micro-spikes are essential during winter months.

Glymur Waterfall Circuit: Iceland's Tallest Falls

At 198 metres, Glymur held the title of Iceland's tallest waterfall until 2011. The 7-kilometre circuit provides technical terrain that challenges experienced trail runners whilst delivering spectacular views of Hvalfjörður.

The trailhead sits 60 kilometres from Reykjavík via Route 47. Park at Botnsdalur (free parking) and follow the marked trail that crosses the Botná River via a fallen log—use extreme caution, especially during high water. The route gains 300 metres of elevation through birch scrubland before reaching viewpoints above the falls.

The circuit's technical sections include river crossings and steep, loose terrain that demands concentration. Allow 2-3 hours for the complete loop, depending on conditions and photo stops. The trail is best attempted between May and October; winter conditions make it unsuitable for running.

Landmannalaugar: Highland Rhyolite Paradise

Landmannalaugar represents Iceland's most spectacular highland running destination. The rhyolite mountains create a palette of colours—rust reds, sulphur yellows, and deep purples—that shift with the light throughout the day (or night, during midnight sun season).

The classic Landmannalaugar loop covers 8 kilometres through the Laugahraun lava field and up Brennisteinsalda (855m), gaining 400 metres of elevation. The trail surface alternates between pumice scree and solid lava rock, requiring sturdy trail shoes with aggressive tread.

Access requires a 4WD vehicle or highland bus service. From Reykjavík, take Route 26 to Route F208, then continue 35 kilometres on the highland track—standard rental cars cannot make this journey. Highland buses operate from Landmannalaugar from mid-June through September, costing 8,900 ISK (€65) return from Reykjavík.

The area offers natural hot springs for post-run recovery, and the mountain hut provides accommodation (4,500 ISK/€33 per night in a sleeping bag) and meals (2,500 ISK/€18 for dinner).

Safety and Preparation

Weather and Gear

Icelandic weather changes rapidly, particularly in highland areas. Even during summer midnight sun periods, temperatures can drop to 5°C at elevation. Essential kit includes:

- Waterproof jacket (preferably breathable softshell)

- Insulating layer (merino wool or synthetic)

- Trail shoes with aggressive lugged soles

- Emergency whistle and basic first aid supplies

- Headtorch with spare batteries (yes, even during midnight sun season—weather can create dark conditions)

Navigation and Communication

GPS units or smartphone apps with downloaded offline maps are essential, particularly for highland routes where weather can reduce visibility to metres. The ICE-SAR (Icelandic Search and Rescue) app provides emergency functionality and is recommended for all outdoor activities.

Mobile coverage exists along most coastal routes but disappears quickly in highland areas. Consider hiring a satellite communicator for remote running, available from outdoor shops in Reykjavík for approximately 2,500 ISK (€18) per day.

Environmental Responsibility

Iceland's ecosystems are fragile and slow to recover from damage. Stay on marked trails, particularly in areas with vegetation or geological features. The highland areas around Landmannalaugar are especially vulnerable—a single footstep off-trail can create damage that takes decades to heal.

Pack out all rubbish and avoid disturbing wildlife, particularly during nesting season (May-August). The Icelandic Environment Agency's "Protect Iceland" campaign provides detailed guidelines for responsible outdoor recreation.

When to Visit

The midnight sun season (May-July) offers the most unique running experiences, with July providing the warmest temperatures and most stable weather. However, each season brings distinct advantages:

- **Spring (April-May)**: Fewer crowds, dramatic light, but variable weather

- **Summer (June-August)**: Warmest conditions, midnight sun, peak trail accessibility

- **Autumn (September-October)**: Stunning colours, aurora potential, but shorter days

- **Winter (November-March)**: Extreme conditions requiring specialised gear and experience

For highland areas like Landmannalaugar, the window is shorter—mid-June through September—when highland roads open and weather becomes more predictable.

Trail running in Iceland during midnight sun season creates memories that last far beyond the physical challenge. Whether you're navigating the technical terrain above Glymur or soaking in hot springs after conquering Landmannalaugar's rhyolite peaks, you'll discover that Iceland transforms the simple act of running into something approaching the transcendent.

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