The Westman Islands: Exploring the Archipelago

Rising from the North Atlantic like jagged sentinels, the Westman Islands form Iceland's most dramatic offshore archipelago. This cluster of 15 islands and 30 skerries lies just 10 kilometres south of Iceland's mainland, yet feels worlds apart from the familiar landscapes of the Ring Road. For those willing to make the crossing, the Westmans—as locals call them—offer an extraordinary blend of raw volcanic landscapes, prolific birdlife, and resilient island culture that has weathered centuries of isolation and natural catastrophe.

Only one island, Heimaey, sustains permanent habitation, home to roughly 4,400 souls who have built one of Iceland's most prosperous fishing communities on this 13.4-square-kilometre volcanic platform. Yet it's precisely this combination of human tenacity and untamed nature that makes the Westman Islands compelling for travellers seeking Iceland beyond the well-trodden tourist circuits.

Getting There and Practical Considerations

The ferry Herjólfur operates year-round between Landeyjahöfn harbour on the mainland and Heimaey, with crossings taking 35 minutes. From May through September, ferries run up to six times daily, whilst winter schedules reduce to 2-3 crossings. Return fares cost 1,990 ISK for adults (approximately €13/£11), with vehicles costing 4,760 ISK. During rough weather—common from October through March—ferries may operate from the backup port of Þorlákshöfn, extending journey time to 2 hours 45 minutes.

For those pressed for time, Eagle Air Iceland operates scheduled flights between Reykjavík City Airport and Heimaey's compact airfield. The 25-minute flight costs around 15,000-20,000 ISK each way but offers spectacular aerial views of the archipelago's volcanic formations.

Weather remains the archipelago's wild card. Atlantic storms can ground flights and cancel ferries with little warning, particularly outside summer months. Travellers should build flexibility into their schedules and pack accordingly—even summer days rarely exceed 15°C, whilst winter temperatures hover around 2-4°C.

Heimaey: The Heart of Westman Island Life

Heimaey town clusters around one of Iceland's most naturally protected harbours, its brightly painted houses rising from sea level towards the island's volcanic ridges. The town's layout tells the story of its relationship with both sea and stone—fishing boats crowd the harbour whilst streets curve around ancient lava fields that shaped the island's topography millennia ago.

The 1973 Eruption: Living History

No visit to Heimaey escapes the shadow of 23 January 1973, when the island's 5,300 residents awakened to find Eldfell volcano erupting just 150 metres from the town centre. The eruption continued for six months, destroying 400 homes and threatening to close the harbour that formed the community's economic lifeline. Yet islanders fought back, pumping 6 million tonnes of seawater onto advancing lava flows to halt their progress—one of the most successful attempts to control volcanic activity in history.

The Eldheimar Museum, built around homes buried by volcanic ash, provides visceral insight into this extraordinary chapter. The museum's preserved houses, their walls cracked by pyroclastic bombardment, demonstrate the eruption's raw power whilst interactive displays explain the scientific and logistical response. Entry costs 2,200 ISK for adults, and the museum opens daily from 10:00-17:00 in summer, with reduced winter hours.

Eldfell and Helgafell: Climbing the Volcanoes

Both of Heimaey's prominent volcanoes reward hikers with panoramic views across the archipelago. Eldfell, the "Fire Mountain" created during the 1973 eruption, rises 221 metres above sea level. The 45-minute climb follows a well-marked path through still-warm volcanic scree—temperatures 30 centimetres below ground level can reach 60-70°C even five decades after the eruption.

Helgafell, the older "Holy Mountain" standing 226 metres tall, offers easier hiking along grassy slopes. According to local folklore, wishes made at Helgafell's summit come true if the climber faces east, remains silent during descent, and tells no one their desire.

The Outer Islands: Wilderness and Wildlife

Beyond Heimaey's human settlement, the archipelago's uninhabited islands preserve some of the North Atlantic's most pristine seabird colonies. These islands remain accessible only by chartered boat, with several operators based in Heimaey harbour offering day trips from May through September.

Surtsey: The World's Youngest Island

Surtsey, born from submarine eruptions between 1963-1967, represents one of geology's most documented natural experiments. Rising 174 metres above sea level and covering 1.4 square kilometres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site remains strictly protected for scientific research. No landings are permitted, but boat tours approach close enough to observe this raw volcanic landscape where scientists study how life colonises virgin territory.

Bjarnarey and the Bird Cliffs

Bjarnarey's towering basalt cliffs support vast seabird colonies, including approximately 40,000 pairs of Atlantic puffins during summer months. The island's 200-metre cliffs provide nesting sites for razorbills, guillemots, and kittiwakes, whilst the surrounding waters teem with the fish stocks that sustain these populations.

Experienced boat operators like Ribsafari (departing from Heimaey harbour) offer 2-3 hour wildlife tours for 9,500 ISK per person, navigating close to cliff faces where thousands of seabirds wheel through the Atlantic air.

Practical Information for Visitors

Accommodation

Heimaey offers limited but adequate lodging options. Hotel Vestmannaeyjar, the island's primary hotel, charges 18,000-25,000 ISK per night for double rooms and provides the archipelago's most comfortable accommodation. The Guesthouse Hamar offers budget-friendly alternatives from 12,000 ISK per night, whilst the campsite near the golf course charges 1,500 ISK per person.

Dining

The restaurant Gott focuses on ultra-fresh seafood landed daily in Heimaey harbour, with dinner mains ranging from 3,200-5,800 ISK. Café Kró provides more casual dining with excellent fish and chips for 2,200 ISK, whilst the local bakery, Vínbúðin Rauða Húsið, serves traditional Icelandic pastries and coffee.

Best Time to Visit

Summer (June-August) offers the warmest weather, calmest seas, and most reliable transport connections. This period also coincides with puffin breeding season, making it optimal for wildlife enthusiasts. However, visitors in May or September often find fewer crowds whilst still enjoying reasonable weather and active seabird colonies.

The Westman Islands demand commitment—weather delays and cancelled crossings test even experienced Iceland travellers. Yet for those who make the crossing, this remarkable archipelago reveals a side of Iceland where human determination meets volcanic forces in an ongoing drama that continues shaping both landscape and community. Here, more than anywhere, visitors grasp the raw power that created Iceland whilst witnessing how islanders adapt, survive, and ultimately prosper on the edge of the inhabitable world.

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