The Waterfall Behind Every Mountain: Westfjords Falls

The Westfjords stand as Iceland's most remote and dramatic region, where ancient basalt plateaux rise from the sea in towering cliffs and deep fjords carve impossibly narrow valleys between mountains. Here, in this geological amphitheatre carved by ice and time, waterfalls cascade with a frequency and grandeur that defies belief. The saying goes that there's a waterfall behind every mountain in the Westfjords—and after driving the serpentine roads through this wilderness, you'll understand why.

This is not the Iceland of tour buses and crowded viewing platforms. The Westfjords' waterfalls demand patience, proper planning, and often a healthy dose of adventure to reach. But for those willing to venture into Iceland's most spectacular and least-visited corner, these falls offer rewards that dwarf the country's more famous cascades.

Dynjandi: The Thunder of the West

No discussion of Westfjords waterfalls begins anywhere but Dynjandi, the undisputed crown jewel that tumbles 100 metres down the mountainside in a bridal veil of mist and thunder. Located on the Arnarfjörður fjord, 22 kilometres from Hrafnseyri, Dynjandi is actually a series of seven waterfalls, with the uppermost—formally called Fjallfoss—being the showstopper.

What makes Dynjandi extraordinary isn't just its height, but its shape. The waterfall broadens as it falls, from 30 metres wide at the top to 60 metres at the bottom, creating a perfect triangular curtain of water. The Icelandic name translates to "thunderous," and standing at the base, you'll understand why—the roar is deafening, the mist soaking, the experience overwhelming.

The hike to the top takes 45 minutes along a well-maintained path that passes all seven falls: Háifoss, Strompgljúfrafoss, Göngumannafoss, Hrísvaðsfoss, Kvíslarfoss, and Hundafoss, each worthy of attention in their own right. The final approach to Dynjandi's base requires sturdy footwear—the rocks are perpetually slick with spray.

Dynjandi is accessible from early June through October, with July and August offering the most reliable weather for photography. The falls run year-round but can freeze partially in winter, creating spectacular ice formations that few ever witness.

The Hidden Giants of Hornstrandir

In the abandoned Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, where the last residents departed in the 1950s, waterfalls cascade into perfect solitude. This roadless peninsula, accessible only by boat or on foot, harbours some of Iceland's most spectacular and least-known falls.

Hesteyrarfoss plunges directly into the sea near the ghost settlement of Hesteyri, creating one of the few places in Iceland where you can witness a waterfall meeting salt water. The 30-metre cascade requires a boat journey from Ísafjörður (approximately 18,000 ISK return) or a challenging multi-day hike across trackless terrain.

Near Hornvík Bay, the towering cliffs of Hornbjarg hide dozens of unnamed waterfalls that appear after rainfall, streaming down 534-metre precipices into the Arctic Ocean. These ephemeral cascades can only be reached by serious hikers prepared for challenging navigation and unpredictable weather.

Rjúkandi: The Smoking Fall

In Arnarfjörður's innermost reaches, Rjúkandi drops 196 metres in a single leap—Iceland's fourth-highest waterfall and one of its most dramatic. The name means "smoking" in reference to the cloud of mist that perpetually shrouds its base.

Located just 8 kilometres from Bíldudalur along Route 619, Rjúkandi offers easier access than many Westfjords falls, though the final approach involves a 20-minute walk across boggy terrain. The waterfall is at its most impressive during spring melt (May-June) when snowmelt from the plateau above feeds torrential flows.

The falls are particularly striking in late evening light during summer months, when the low Arctic sun illuminates the mist cloud, creating ethereal golden veils. Professional photographers often rate this as Iceland's most photogenic waterfall after sunset.

The Látrabjarg Peninsula's Coastal Cascades

Europe's westernmost point harbours a secret: dozens of waterfalls that plunge directly from the continent's edge into the Atlantic. The Látrabjarg cliffs, famous for their puffin colonies, also host spectacular seasonal waterfalls that few visitors notice.

These unnamed cascades are best viewed from the sea or from careful vantage points along the cliff-top walking paths. During heavy rains or spring melt, the plateau above drains through countless temporary waterfalls that create curtains of water against the 440-metre cliff faces. The largest of these falls, informally known as Látrabjargsfoss, drops the full height of the cliffs in periods of heavy flow.

Practical Considerations for Waterfall Hunting

The Westfjords' remote location and challenging weather demand serious preparation. Route 61 forms the region's main artery, but many waterfalls require detours onto gravel roads that can be impassable in poor weather. A 4WD vehicle is essential for serious exploration, and GPS coordinates are crucial—mobile signals are sporadic at best.

Weather changes rapidly, with visibility dropping to metres in fog or rain. Always carry proper waterproof clothing, sturdy hiking boots, and emergency supplies including food and warm clothing. Many of the region's most spectacular waterfalls are at their peak flow during periods of heavy rain—precisely when conditions become most challenging.

Accommodation is limited, with Ísafjörður serving as the region's main base. Hotel Ísafjörður offers rooms from 28,000 ISK, while guesthouses and camping provide budget alternatives. Fuel stations are scarce—fill up in Ísafjörður before heading into remote areas.

The optimal visiting window runs from June through September, with July offering the most reliable weather. However, serious waterfall enthusiasts should consider May-June visits when snowmelt creates the most dramatic flows, despite more challenging driving conditions.

Beyond the Famous Falls

The Westfjords' true magic lies not just in its showpiece waterfalls, but in the countless unnamed cascades that appear around every bend. In Ísafjarðardjúp, seasonal waterfalls stream down mountainsides after every storm. The Stranger area harbours dozens of falls accessible only to determined hikers willing to venture off-trail.

This is waterfall hunting in its purest form—not following marked trails to Instagram-famous destinations, but discovering your own cascades in one of Europe's last true wildernesses. In the Westfjords, the saying holds true: there really is a waterfall behind every mountain, waiting for those bold enough to look.

Getting around Iceland is easiest by car. Compare rental options and find the best deals on Discover Cars — free cancellation available.

Renting a car is the best way to explore Iceland. Compare prices and find the perfect vehicle with Northbound — trusted by over 240,000 travelers.

Planning your Iceland trip? Don't forget travel insurance — SafetyWing offers flexible Nomad Insurance from $56.28/4 weeks, ideal for Iceland's dramatic terrain and ever-changing conditions. Get covered before you go and explore with confidence.

Book Iceland tours and experiences through GetYourGuide — compare hundreds of guided activities including glacier hikes, whale watching, northern lights tours, and Golden Circle day trips. Instant confirmation, free cancellation on most bookings.