The Strandir Coast: Iceland's Forgotten Shore

The Strandir Coast stretches 200 kilometres along Iceland's remote northwestern edge, a wild and weathered shoreline that most visitors never glimpse. Bounded by the Denmark Strait to the west and the rugged highlands of the Westfjords to the east, this desolate peninsula represents Iceland at its most untamed—a place where Arctic foxes outnumber tourists, where ancient fishing villages cling to existence, and where the very landscape seems frozen in time.

Unlike the tourist-thronged Ring Road or the accessible Golden Circle, Strandir demands commitment. The region's isolation has preserved not just its pristine wilderness, but also stories of sorcery, survival, and the unyielding relationship between Icelanders and their harsh environment.

Geography and Landscape

The Strandir Coast forms the western edge of the Westfjords, stretching from Bjarnarfjörður in the south to Hornbjarg cliffs in the north. The coastline comprises dramatic sea cliffs rising up to 534 metres at Hornbjarg, black sand beaches, and countless small bays carved by millennia of Arctic storms.

The region's backbone consists of plateau basalt formations dating to the Tertiary period, approximately 16 million years old. These ancient lava flows created the distinctive flat-topped mountains that characterise the area, including Kaldbakur (998 metres) and Straumsfjall (730 metres). Between these weathered peaks lie deep valleys carved by Ice Age glaciers, creating a topography of stunning contrasts.

The coastline itself tells a geological story of constant battle between land and sea. At Krossneslaug, natural hot springs bubble up just metres from the Arctic Ocean, whilst at Djúpavík, the remnants of Iceland's largest herring factory stand as testament to the region's industrial past.

The Forgotten Villages

Norðurfjörður

Population: 2 permanent residents. Once a thriving fishing settlement of over 70 souls, Norðurfjörður now stands virtually abandoned. The village church, built in 1878, remains perfectly preserved, its whitewashed walls a stark contrast against the dark mountains behind. The last shop closed in 1995, but the community still gathers for occasional services and the annual summer festival.

Djúpavík

Perhaps Strandir's most atmospheric settlement, Djúpavík (population 12) centres around the massive concrete ruins of a herring processing plant built in 1934. At its peak, this factory processed 50,000 tonnes of herring annually and employed 300 workers. Today, the abandoned facility serves as a haunting monument to Iceland's boom-and-bust fishing industry. The restored Hotel Djúpavík (ISK 28,000-35,000 per night) occupies the former women's dormitory, offering comfortable accommodation amidst the industrial archaeology.

Drangsnes

The largest settlement on Strandir with 67 inhabitants, Drangsnes maintains a functioning harbour and serves as the region's unofficial capital. The village museum showcases the area's fishing heritage, whilst the nearby Drangsnes Hot Pots (free admission) provide geothermally heated seawater pools overlooking the Arctic Ocean.

Wildlife and Natural Phenomena

Strandir's isolation has created vital habitat for Arctic wildlife. The region supports Iceland's densest population of Arctic foxes, with over 200 individuals recorded in the latest survey. These fearless scavengers can often be observed hunting seabirds along the cliffs or scavenging on beaches.

The towering sea cliffs provide nesting sites for over 100,000 seabirds, including guillemots, razorbills, and puffins. Hornbjarg cliffs, part of the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, remain completely protected from human interference, accessible only by boat or on foot.

During winter months (November to February), the aurora borealis appears regularly due to the region's northern latitude (66°N) and complete absence of light pollution. The combination of dramatic coastline and dancing northern lights creates some of Iceland's most spectacular photography opportunities.

The Sorcery Museum and Local Legends

The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft in nearby Hólmavík (admission ISK 1,650) documents the Westfjords' dark reputation as Iceland's centre of magical practice. The Strandir Coast features prominently in these tales, particularly the story of Sámur, a 17th-century sorcerer from Skagaströnd who allegedly raised the dead and commanded the weather.

The museum displays authentic spell books, magical artefacts, and the infamous nábrók—a pair of necropants made from human skin. Whilst macabre, these exhibits provide genuine insight into how isolated communities like those on Strandir developed folklore to explain their harsh environment.

Practical Information

Getting There

Strandir requires a 4WD vehicle and considerable time. From Reykjavík, drive Route 1 north to Brú, then Route 61 through Hólmavík. Route 643 follows the coast but deteriorates significantly north of Djúpavík, becoming a rough mountain track requiring experienced drivers. Total driving distance from Reykjavík to Djúpavík: 287 kilometres (4-5 hours).

No public transport serves the region. Fuel stations exist only in Hólmavík and Drangsnes—plan accordingly.

When to Visit

Summer (June-August) provides the most accessible conditions, with 24-hour daylight and temperatures reaching 12°C. However, even summer weather remains unpredictable, with frequent fog and sudden storms.

Winter visits (December-March) offer aurora viewing opportunities but require extreme caution due to snow, ice, and limited daylight (4-5 hours).

Accommodation and Costs

Options remain extremely limited:

- Hotel Djúpavík: ISK 28,000-35,000 per night

- Drangsnes Guesthouse: ISK 18,000-24,000 per night

- Wild camping permitted with landowner permission

Bring all supplies from Reykjavík or Akureyri. The few local shops stock only basic provisions at premium prices.

A Shore Worth Discovering

The Strandir Coast rewards the adventurous traveller with experiences impossible to find elsewhere in Iceland. Here, the country's essence distils into its purest form: dramatic landscapes shaped by elemental forces, communities bound together by necessity, and stories that blur the line between history and legend. For those willing to venture beyond Iceland's well-trodden paths, Strandir offers a glimpse of a wilder, more mysterious Iceland—one that fewer than 1,000 visitors discover each year.

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