The Kjölur Route (F35): Highland Drive Guide

The Kjölur Route, officially designated as F35, cuts a spectacular path through Iceland's uninhabited interior highlands, connecting the south with the north across 170 kilometres of dramatic volcanic terrain. This ancient passage, used by Vikings and traders for over a millennium, remains one of Iceland's most accessible highland routes whilst delivering an authentic wilderness experience that epitomises the raw beauty of the island's interior.

Running from Gullfoss in the south to the Blanda river valley near Blönduós in the north, the Kjölur Route traverses the gap between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers, following a corridor that sits at elevations between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. Unlike many of Iceland's highland tracks, F35 requires no river crossings and maintains relatively gentle gradients, making it the most approachable of the major interior routes.

Geological Wonders Along the Route

The Kjölur Highland sits within the neovolcanic zone, where the landscape tells a story written in lava, ash, and ice. The route passes through the Kjalhraun lava field, formed during eruptions approximately 7,800 years ago. This vast expanse of moss-covered lava creates an otherworldly moonscape that stretches to the horizons, punctuated by ancient volcanic cones and explosion craters.

Langjökull glacier dominates the western skyline throughout much of the journey. Iceland's second-largest ice cap covers 953 square kilometres and feeds numerous rivers that carve through the highland terrain. The glacier's southern tongue reaches down towards the route, offering dramatic views of blue-white ice contrasting against black volcanic rock and verdant moss.

Hveravellir Geothermal Area

The crown jewel of the Kjölur Route lies 105 kilometres from Gullfoss at Hveravellir, one of Iceland's most pristine geothermal areas. This oasis of hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pools creates a stark contrast to the surrounding barren landscape. The main hot spring, Blahver, maintains temperatures around 100°C, whilst Öskurhólshver reaches 85°C and remains suitable for bathing.

Hveravellir's mountain hut, operated by Ferðafélag Íslands, provides accommodation and meals during the summer season from mid-June through September. The facility charges 8,500 ISK (approximately €60/£50) per night for sleeping bag accommodation, with made-up beds available for 11,500 ISK (€80/£70). The hut's natural hot pool, fed by geothermal springs, offers a unique highland bathing experience at no additional charge.

Vehicle Requirements and Road Conditions

The F35 designation indicates this road requires a 4WD vehicle, though the term proves somewhat misleading for modern travellers. The route consists primarily of well-maintained gravel track suitable for most cars with adequate ground clearance during good weather conditions. However, highland weather can change rapidly, transforming a manageable track into a challenging drive requiring genuine off-road capability.

Standard rental agreements in Iceland typically prohibit driving non-4WD vehicles on F-roads, making violation potentially costly if damage occurs. The road surface varies from smooth gravel to rocky sections, particularly in the approach to Hveravellir and the northern descent towards the Blanda valley.

Navigation and Waypoints

Key distances and waypoints along F35 from Gullfoss include:

- Gullfoss to F35 junction: 7 kilometres

- F35 junction to Hvítárnes: 42 kilometres

- Hvítárnes to Hveravellir: 63 kilometres

- Hveravellir to Blöndulón reservoir: 45 kilometres

- Blöndulón to Route 1 junction: 35 kilometres

The entire journey typically requires 4-5 hours of driving time under normal conditions, though travellers should allocate a full day to properly experience Hveravellir and the surrounding landscape.

Seasonal Access and Weather

The Kjölur Route typically opens for the season in mid-June, though exact opening dates depend on snow conditions and weather patterns. The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration maintains current road status at road.is, essential reading before attempting any highland journey.

Summer presents the optimal travel window, with roads generally accessible through September. July and August offer the most stable weather conditions, though highland weather remains notoriously unpredictable regardless of season. Temperatures can drop below freezing even during summer months, and snow remains possible year-round.

Weather Preparedness

Highland weather systems develop rapidly and can create dangerous driving conditions within hours. Before departure, check vedur.is for current forecasts and warnings. The met office issues specific highland forecasts that often differ significantly from coastal conditions. Visibility can drop to mere metres during fog or snow, making navigation extremely challenging.

Essential equipment includes warm clothing, emergency food supplies, and communication devices. Mobile phone coverage exists sporadically along the route, with reasonable signal strength near Hveravellir but significant dead zones elsewhere.

Planning Your Journey

Most travellers approach F35 from the south via Gullfoss, combining the highland crossing with Golden Circle attractions. This southern approach offers better services and accommodation options in nearby Geysir and Gullfoss areas.

The northern terminus connects with Route 1 near Varmahlíð, providing access to Akureyri (75 kilometres east) or continuation around the ring road. This routing works particularly well for travellers proceeding to the Westfjords or completing a clockwise circumnavigation of Iceland.

Fuel and Supplies

No fuel stations exist along the highland route itself. The last reliable fuel stops southbound are at Geysir (15 kilometres from F35 junction) or Selfoss (57 kilometres). Northbound travellers should fuel at Varmahlíð or Blönduós before attempting the crossing.

Carry emergency food and water, as the only services along the route operate at Hveravellir during summer months. The mountain hut provides meals for day visitors, though advance booking proves advisable during peak season.

The Kjölur Route delivers an authentic taste of Iceland's highland wilderness whilst remaining accessible to confident drivers with appropriate vehicles. This ancient pathway through the island's volcanic heart offers landscapes and experiences unavailable anywhere else, making it an essential component of any serious Iceland exploration.

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