The Highlands: Iceland's Interior Wilderness

Iceland's Highlands represent the country's last true frontier—a vast, uninhabited expanse covering roughly 40,000 square kilometres of volcanic plateaus, glacial rivers, and otherworldly landscapes that remain largely unchanged since the island's formation. This interior wilderness, known locally as *hálendið*, encompasses everything above 400 metres elevation and remains one of Europe's largest uninhabited areas.

A Land Shaped by Fire and Ice

The Highlands exist as a direct result of Iceland's position astride the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Here, volcanic activity has created a landscape of extraordinary geological diversity: active volcanoes pierce ice caps, geothermal areas paint the ground in vivid colours, and glacial rivers carve ever-changing channels through black sand plains. The region includes four of Iceland's five major ice caps—Vatnajökull, Langjökull, Hofsjökull, and Mýrdalsjökull—which feed numerous glacial rivers that flow north and south toward the coastal lowlands.

The bedrock tells a story spanning millions of years, with basalt formations, rhyolite peaks, and obsidian fields creating a palette that shifts from deep black to rust red, sulphur yellow, and ice blue. Active volcanic systems like Askja, Kverkfjöll, and the infamous Eyjafjallajökull demonstrate that this landscape remains very much alive.

Highland Routes and Access

The F-Roads Network

The Highlands are accessible only via F-roads (mountain roads) that require four-wheel-drive vehicles. These unmarked tracks, often little more than tyre ruts across lava fields, demand careful navigation and proper preparation. The main arteries include:

**F35 Kjölur Route**: The most accessible highland crossing, stretching 170 kilometres between Gullfoss and Blönduós. This route passes between Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers, offering spectacular views whilst remaining relatively easy to navigate. The journey takes approximately 4-5 hours.

**F26 Sprengisandur Route**: A 204-kilometre traverse through Europe's largest desert, connecting the Ring Road near Goðafoss to Landmannalaugar. This stark landscape of black sand and gravel offers few landmarks and requires experience with highland driving.

**F208 Fjallabak Route**: Perhaps the most scenic highland road, this 54-kilometre route connects the Ring Road to Landmannalaugar via the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, passing colourful rhyolite peaks and obsidian fields.

Seasonal Considerations

Highland roads typically open between mid-June and mid-September, though exact dates depend on weather conditions and snowmelt. The Icelandic Road Administration updates road status at road.is, which should be consulted before any highland journey. Even during the official season, river crossings can become impassable within hours due to glacial melt or rainfall.

Iconic Highland Destinations

Landmannalaugar

This geothermal wonderland sits at the heart of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, where multicoloured rhyolite peaks create one of Iceland's most photographed landscapes. The area features natural hot springs where visitors can bathe whilst surrounded by snow-capped peaks and steaming fumaroles. Landmannalaugar serves as the southern terminus of the famous Laugavegur hiking trail and offers day hikes ranging from 2-8 hours through obsidian fields and geothermal valleys.

Askja and Víti Crater

The Askja volcanic system includes a 50-square-kilometre caldera formed by a catastrophic eruption in 1875. Within this caldera lies Víti crater, a circular explosion crater filled with milky blue geothermal water. The 4-kilometre walk from the car park crosses lunar-like terrain that has served as training ground for Apollo astronauts.

Kerlingarfjöll

This volcanic mountain range reaches 1,477 metres at its highest point and contains extensive geothermal fields with steaming vents, hot springs, and colourful mineral deposits. The area offers excellent hiking opportunities and, uniquely for the Highlands, features a mountain hut providing accommodation and meals during summer months.

Practical Considerations

Vehicle Requirements and Costs

Highland travel demands a proper four-wheel-drive vehicle with high clearance. Rental costs for suitable 4WDs range from 18,000-35,000 ISK (€120-235) per day depending on size and season. Insurance specifically covering highland driving (F-road coverage) costs an additional 2,000-4,000 ISK (€13-27) daily but is essential given the risks involved.

Safety and Preparation

The Highlands present genuine wilderness risks. Mobile phone coverage is non-existent in most areas, and rescue operations can take many hours. Essential equipment includes:

- Detailed topographic maps and compass/GPS

- Emergency food and warm clothing

- First aid supplies and emergency shelter

- Spare fuel (many highland routes exceed 200 kilometres between fuel stops)

- River crossing experience or local guide knowledge

Weather can change rapidly, with summer snowstorms occurring even in July. Hypothermia remains a serious risk year-round above 500 metres elevation.

Guided Tours vs Independent Travel

For inexperienced highland travellers, guided super-jeep tours offer safe access to key locations. Companies like Reykjavik Excursions and Arctic Adventures operate day trips to Landmannalaugar (17,900 ISK/€120) and multi-day highland expeditions (from 89,000 ISK/€595). These tours use specially modified vehicles capable of deep river crossings and provide expert local knowledge.

Conservation and Respect

The Highland environment is extraordinarily fragile. Vegetation grows slowly in the harsh climate, and tyre tracks can remain visible for decades. Visitors must stay on designated tracks, camp only in approved areas, and pack out all waste. The Highland environment supports limited but specialised wildlife, including pink-footed geese, reindeer in the east, and Arctic fox throughout the region.

When to Visit

The optimal Highland season runs from late June through August, when temperatures reach 10-15°C during the day but can drop below freezing at night. July offers the most stable conditions and longest daylight hours, whilst late August provides stunning autumn colours as Highland vegetation prepares for winter.

Iceland's Highlands offer an unparalleled wilderness experience within Europe, but demand respect, preparation, and proper equipment. For those willing to venture into this raw landscape, the rewards include some of the planet's most dramatic and pristine natural environments—a true journey into the heart of geological time.

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