Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki: The Old Coast Road

The gentle arc of Iceland's southern coast holds two of the country's most evocative historic fishing villages, connected by a weathered ribbon of tarmac that locals still call the old coast road. Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki, separated by just 7 kilometres of black sand beaches and marshland, offer visitors a rare glimpse into Iceland's maritime heritage, far removed from the tourist crowds that gather at the Ring Road's more famous attractions.

A Landscape Shaped by Sea and Storm

This stretch of the Reykjanes Peninsula's eastern edge presents Iceland at its most elemental. The coastline here bears the full brunt of Atlantic storms, where waves crash against black volcanic beaches and salt spray carries inland across the Flói wetlands. The villages sit precariously between land and sea, their existence testament to centuries of Icelandic determination to wrest a living from unforgiving waters.

The old coast road (Route 33) winds through this dramatic landscape, offering expansive views across Flói Bay towards the Westman Islands, 20 kilometres offshore. On clear days, the snow-capped peaks of Eyjafjallajökull dominate the eastern horizon, whilst to the west, the Reykjanes Peninsula's geothermal fields release steam into the sky.

Eyrarbakki: Iceland's Former Gateway

Eyrarbakki, the more historically significant of the two settlements, served as Iceland's principal trading port for over four centuries. Established as a Danish trading post in 1765, it became the country's largest settlement outside Reykjavík by the mid-19th century, with a population exceeding 1,500 souls.

The Heritage House and Maritime Museum

The village's crown jewel is Húsið (The Heritage House), Iceland's oldest concrete building, constructed in 1765 as the Danish merchant's residence. This imposing structure, painted bright yellow in the Danish colonial style, now houses the Árnessýsla Heritage Museum. The collection spans 200 years of local history, with particular emphasis on the golden age of fishing when Eyrarbakki's harbour bristled with masts and the streets echoed with a dozen languages.

Entry costs 1,500 ISK (€10/£9) for adults, with guided tours available in English during summer months. The museum's maritime section includes reconstructed fishing boats, vintage diving equipment, and a sobering display dedicated to the hundreds of fishermen lost to these treacherous waters.

Walking the Historic Streets

Eyrarbakki's compact grid of streets rewards exploration on foot. The village retains over 30 buildings dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries, many constructed from driftwood and painted in bright colours to combat the psychological effects of Iceland's dark winters.

The old cemetery, perched on a small rise overlooking the sea, contains weathered headstones that tell the story of a community shaped by tragedy and triumph. Many graves belong to foreign sailors whose ships foundered on this dangerous coast, creating an unexpected international flavour to this remote Icelandic outpost.

Stokkseyri: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Seven kilometres east along the old coast road, Stokkseyri presents a different face of Iceland's fishing heritage. Smaller and more intimate than its neighbour, this village of 500 residents has successfully balanced preservation of its maritime traditions with modern economic realities.

The Lobster Capital

Stokkseyri has earned renown as Iceland's lobster capital, with the local fleet specialising in langoustine fishing in the deeper waters offshore. The village's most famous establishment, Við Fjöruborðið (The Seashore Restaurant), has achieved legendary status among Icelandic food enthusiasts for its lobster soup, served since 1985 in the same rustic dining room overlooking the harbour.

A bowl of their signature soup costs 3,900 ISK (€26/£23), whilst a full lobster dinner ranges from 8,500-12,000 ISK (€57-80/£50-70). The restaurant operates year-round, though advance booking is essential during summer months.

Ghost Centre and Cultural Attractions

Stokkseyri's most unusual attraction is the Ghost Centre (Draugasetrið), housed in a restored fish processing plant. This multimedia experience explores Iceland's rich folklore tradition, with particular emphasis on the supernatural beings said to inhabit this windswept coastline. The adjacent Icelandic Wonders exhibition provides context for the ghost stories within broader Icelandic cultural traditions.

Combined entry to both exhibitions costs 2,500 ISK (€17/£15), with performances scheduled hourly from 13:00-18:00 during peak season (June-August).

Practical Considerations

Getting There

Both villages are easily accessible from Reykjavík via Route 1 (Ring Road) and Route 33, a journey of 55 kilometres taking approximately 45 minutes. Regular bus service (Route 51) operates twice daily from BSÍ terminal in Reykjavík, with a one-way fare of 1,680 ISK (€11/£10).

When to Visit

The villages are accessible year-round, though winter visitors should be prepared for harsh weather conditions. Summer months (June-August) offer the most reliable weather and longest daylight hours, but also the highest visitor numbers. Late spring (April-May) and early autumn (September-October) provide excellent compromise conditions with fewer crowds.

Weather Considerations

This exposed coastline experiences some of Iceland's most volatile weather. Wind speeds regularly exceed 20 m/s during winter storms, and visitors should dress warmly regardless of season. The villages offer limited shelter, making waterproof clothing essential.

Beyond the Villages

The old coast road continues east towards Selfoss, passing through some of southern Iceland's most important wetlands. The Flói Nature Reserve, which extends inland from both villages, provides crucial habitat for migrating birds and offers excellent birdwatching opportunities, particularly during spring and autumn migrations.

Serious hikers can follow coastal paths extending several kilometres in either direction, though the terrain can be challenging and weather-dependent. The black sand beaches, whilst beautiful, are unsuitable for swimming due to dangerous currents and frigid temperatures.

A Living Heritage

Stokkseyri and Eyrarbakki represent more than mere tourist attractions—they are living museums where Iceland's fishing heritage continues to evolve. In an age of rapid change, these weathered communities offer visitors an authentic encounter with the elemental forces that shaped Icelandic culture: the sea, the weather, and the enduring human determination to thrive in one of Earth's most challenging environments.

The old coast road between them remains a journey through time, where every kilometre reveals another chapter in Iceland's maritime story.

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