Stöðvarfjörður: The Village of Stones

Nestled in the depths of East Iceland's dramatic fjordlands, Stöðvarfjörður stands as one of the country's most unusual settlements—a village literally built upon stones. This remote community of approximately 200 residents sits on the shores of its namesake fjord, surrounded by towering mountains that hold secrets spanning millions of years. What sets Stöðvarfjörður apart isn't merely its stunning location, but its extraordinary geological heritage that has earned it the moniker "The Village of Stones."

A Geological Wonder

The name Stöðvarfjörður translates to "Station Fjord," yet locals and visitors alike know it for something far more captivating than its historical role as a stopping point. The village sits atop one of Iceland's most remarkable mineral deposits, where the ancient volcanic activity that shaped the island created an underground treasure trove of semi-precious stones and minerals. The bedrock here dates back roughly 13 million years, formed during intense volcanic episodes that left behind zeolites, calcite, quartz crystals, and the prized Icelandic spar—a perfectly clear variety of calcite once more valuable than gold for its optical properties.

The surrounding mountains, particularly Helgustaðir and the nearby peaks, contain over 40 different types of minerals and stones. This concentration is so exceptional that Stöðvarfjörður has been designated a UNESCO Global Geopark candidate site, recognising its international geological significance.

Petra's Stone Collection: A Labour of Love

No discussion of Stöðvarfjörður is complete without mentioning Petra Sveinsdóttir's legendary stone collection, housed in what was once a modest family home at Fjarðargata 21. Petra (1922-2012) spent over 70 years collecting stones and minerals from the surrounding mountains, amassing what many consider the world's largest private mineral collection held in a residential setting.

The collection, now known as Steinasafn Petru (Petra's Stone Collection), contains thousands of specimens displayed throughout the house and sprawling garden. Visitors can explore rooms where every surface groans under the weight of geodes, crystals, and rare minerals. The dining room table disappears beneath layers of specimens, whilst the garden paths wind between towering cairns of colourful stones.

Entry costs 1,500 ISK (approximately 10 EUR) for adults, with children under 14 admitted free when accompanied by paying adults. The museum operates from 1 June to 30 September, daily from 09:00 to 18:00, though arrangements for off-season visits can sometimes be made by contacting the current caretakers in advance.

The Village Today

Modern Stöðvarfjörður maintains its intimate character despite—or perhaps because of—its remote location. The village economy traditionally relied on fishing, but tourism has become increasingly important as word of Petra's collection and the area's geological wonders has spread. The local harbour still serves fishing vessels, whilst the village's single shop, Verslun Stöðvarfjarðar, provides essential supplies for residents and passing travellers.

The village church, Stöðvarfjarðarkirkja, dates to 1925 and seats just 60 people, making it one of Iceland's smaller parish churches. Its simple white exterior belies a beautifully maintained interior with hand-painted decorative elements that reflect the community's close-knit nature.

Getting There and Practical Considerations

Stöðvarfjörður lies 26 kilometres south of Fáskrúðsfjörður along Route 96, which branches off the Ring Road (Route 1) near Reyðarfjörður. The drive from Reykjavík covers approximately 640 kilometres and takes roughly 7.5 hours, making it ideal for those exploring the East Fjords over several days rather than as a day trip from the capital.

The approach to Stöðvarfjörður offers spectacular scenery as the road hugs the coastline, providing views across Héraðsflói bay towards the Vatnajökull glacier on clear days. Route 96 is paved but narrow, requiring careful driving, particularly during winter months when conditions can be challenging.

Accommodation options within the village are limited. The guesthouse Hjallatún offers basic but comfortable rooms for around 15,000 ISK per night during peak season, whilst wild camping is possible with landowner permission, following Iceland's right-to-roam principles.

Best Time to Visit

The optimal visiting period runs from late May through early September, coinciding with Petra's Stone Collection's opening season and the most reliable road conditions. July and August offer the warmest weather, with average temperatures reaching 12-15°C, though visitors should always prepare for rapid weather changes characteristic of Iceland's maritime climate.

Winter visits are possible for the truly adventurous, offering the chance to experience this remote community in pristine isolation, possibly under the dancing northern lights. However, services are extremely limited, and road conditions require careful consideration.

Beyond the Stones

Whilst Petra's collection draws most visitors, Stöðvarfjörður offers several other attractions for those willing to explore. The surrounding mountains provide excellent hiking opportunities, with trails leading to mineral-rich areas where visitors can search for their own specimens—always with respect for the landscape and following local guidelines.

The village serves as an excellent base for exploring neighbouring fjords, including the dramatic Fáskrúðsfjörður with its French heritage, or the larger settlement of Höfn, gateway to Vatnajökull National Park, just 90 kilometres south.

For those seeking authentic Icelandic experiences away from the tourist trails, Stöðvarfjörður delivers an intimate encounter with both natural wonder and human dedication to preserving it. In this village of stones, every rock tells a story millions of years in the making, whilst every resident continues the tradition of finding beauty in the most unexpected places.

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