Skógafoss to Þórsmörk: Chasing Waterfalls on the Fimmvörðuháls

The Fimmvörðuháls trail stands as one of Iceland's most celebrated hiking routes, threading its way between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers across 25 kilometres of extraordinary volcanic terrain. This challenging day hike—or leisurely overnight adventure—begins at the thunderous Skógafoss waterfall and concludes in the verdant valley of Þórsmörk, delivering hikers through a landscape shaped by fire and ice over millennia.

The Journey Begins: Skógafoss and the Waterfall Chain

Your odyssey commences at Skógafoss, Iceland's most photogenic waterfall, where the Skógá river plunges 60 metres over ancient sea cliffs. The wooden staircase beside the falls—all 527 steps of it—marks the official trailhead and provides your first taste of the cardiovascular challenge ahead. The ascent rewards you with spectacular views across the black sand beaches of the South Coast before revealing the true prize: a chain of over 20 waterfalls cascading down the Skógá river valley.

The initial 5 kilometres follow the river's eastern bank, with each waterfall presenting its own character. Some tumble in delicate veils over moss-covered basalt, whilst others thunder through narrow gorges carved by countless seasons of meltwater. The trail here remains well-defined, marked by yellow stakes, though the terrain grows increasingly rocky as you gain elevation.

Geological Theatre: The 2010 Eruption Site

At approximately kilometre 15, the landscape transforms dramatically as you approach the Fimmvörðuháls pass itself—the "Five Cairn Pass" that gives the trail its name. Here lies one of Iceland's newest geological features: the Magni and Móði craters, formed during the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption that grounded European air travel for weeks.

The craters, named after Thor's sons in Norse mythology, still steam gently on cold days, and the surrounding lava fields retain their otherworldly character. Walking through this moonscape of ropey pāhoehoe and jagged ʻaʻā lava provides an unparalleled opportunity to witness geological processes that elsewhere require millions of years to unfold. The newest Icelandic land lies beneath your boots, some sections still warm to the touch over a decade later.

The High Pass and Descent to Þórsmörk

Beyond the craters, the trail climbs to its highest point at 1,158 metres between the two glacier caps. On clear days, the panorama encompasses the entire South Coast, from the Vestman Islands to the glacial tongue of Sólheimajökull. The weather here changes rapidly—what begins as sunshine at Skógafoss can become driving snow at the pass within hours, even in summer.

The descent into Þórsmörk—"Thor's Forest"—reveals Iceland's most unexpected landscape. Protected by three glaciers, this highland oasis supports extensive birch forests and vibrant wildflower meadows. The valley's microclimate creates a sanctuary where rowan trees reach surprising heights and arctic foxes den amongst the vegetation.

Practical Considerations and Planning

Timing and Conditions

The Fimmvörðuháls trail operates on nature's schedule, typically accessible from late June through September. Snow can persist at higher elevations well into July, whilst September brings the first serious winter storms. Weather conditions change rapidly, with visibility dropping to mere metres during cloud cover at the pass.

Allow 10-12 hours for the complete traverse, though experienced hikers in optimal conditions can manage it in 8 hours. Many opt to break the journey with an overnight stay at either Fimmvörðuskáli hut (situated between the craters) or one of the Þórsmörk huts.

Transportation and Logistics

Reaching the trailhead requires minimal effort—Skógafoss lies directly beside Route 1, with ample parking (free) and basic facilities. The return journey from Þórsmörk proves more complex, requiring either a 4WD vehicle capable of fording multiple glacial rivers or booking passage on one of the specialist highland buses operated by companies like Reykjavík Excursions or Trex (approximately 5,000 ISK/€35).

Essential Equipment and Safety

The Fimmvörðuháls demands proper mountain equipment regardless of season. Waterproof clothing, insulating layers, sturdy hiking boots, navigation equipment, and emergency shelter constitute the minimum kit. Weather can deteriorate from pleasant to life-threatening within minutes, particularly around the glacial areas.

River crossings in Þórsmörk require particular attention—glacial melt causes water levels to fluctuate dramatically throughout the day, with lowest levels typically occurring in early morning. Several crossings have claimed vehicles and endangered hikers who underestimated the conditions.

Accommodation and Extended Exploration

Mountain Huts

Fimmvörðuskáli, perched at 1,108 metres altitude, provides the trail's only accommodation, offering both sleeping bag spaces (6,500 ISK/€45) and limited camping. Advance booking through the Icelandic Touring Association proves essential during peak season.

Þórsmörk valley hosts several accommodation options, including Langidalur, Húsadalur, and Básar huts, each serving as basecamp for extended exploration of the region's numerous day hikes.

Connecting Routes

Many hikers use Fimmvörðuháls as the opening act to the legendary Laugavegur trail, creating a 79-kilometre highland traverse from Skógafoss to Landmannalaugar. This combination ranks among the world's premier multi-day hikes, showcasing Iceland's volcanic landscapes in their full diversity.

The Fimmvörðuháls trail delivers more than just a hiking experience—it provides intimate access to geological processes that shaped not only Iceland but our understanding of volcanic systems worldwide. From the thunderous introduction at Skógafoss to the gentle forests of Þórsmörk, every kilometre reveals new facets of Iceland's extraordinary landscape.

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