Seljalandsfoss: Walk Behind the Falls

Seljalandsfoss: Walk Behind the Falls

Standing 60 metres tall against the dramatic backdrop of Iceland's southern coast, Seljalandsfoss offers something truly extraordinary amongst the country's countless waterfalls: the rare opportunity to walk completely behind its thundering cascade. This iconic waterfall, plunging from the cliffs of the former coastline, has become one of Iceland's most photographed natural wonders—and for compelling reasons that extend far beyond its Instagram appeal.

Located along the Ring Road just 1.5km from Route 1, Seljalandsfoss sits at the foot of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier, the same ice cap whose volcanic eruption in 2010 grounded European air traffic for weeks. The waterfall's name translates roughly to "waterfall of the willow river," though willows are notably sparse in this windswept landscape. Instead, visitors encounter a masterpiece of geological drama where the Seljalandsá river drops dramatically from cliffs that once marked Iceland's Atlantic shoreline thousands of years ago.

The Geological Story

The cliffs from which Seljalandsfoss cascades represent one of Iceland's most significant geographical transitions. During the last ice age, sea levels were considerably higher, and these 60-metre basalt cliffs formed the actual coastline. As glaciers retreated and land rebounded, the sea receded some 5 kilometres south, leaving these ancient sea cliffs inland. The result is a landscape where rivers that once flowed directly into the ocean now plummet spectacularly from clifftops to the coastal plain below.

The waterfall's basalt foundation, formed from ancient lava flows, created the perfect conditions for the distinctive alcove behind the falls. Differential erosion—where softer rock erodes more quickly than harder layers—carved out the cave-like space that allows visitors to venture behind the water curtain. This geological quirk makes Seljalandsfoss one of only a handful of major waterfalls worldwide where such access is safely possible.

The Walk Behind the Falls

The path behind Seljalandsfoss stretches approximately 40 metres along a rough but well-defined track. The experience begins at the eastern side of the falls, where a clearly marked trail leads around the base of the cliff. As you approach the space behind the waterfall, the sound intensifies to a thunderous roar that drowns out all conversation.

The walk itself requires sure footing, particularly during wet conditions when spray creates slippery surfaces on the basalt rocks. Waterproof clothing is absolutely essential—even on dry days, the mist from the falls will thoroughly soak anyone venturing behind the cascade. The path is generally accessible from April through October, though ice formation can make winter access treacherous and sometimes impossible.

Behind the falls, the perspective transforms completely. Looking outward through the curtain of water, visitors glimpse the Westman Islands on clear days, while the coastal plain stretches toward the village of Hvolsvöllur. The play of light through the water creates constantly shifting patterns, with rainbows frequently visible during sunny conditions, particularly in late afternoon when the sun angles through the spray.

Practical Considerations

Seljalandsfoss operates on nature's schedule—there are no admission fees or opening hours. The waterfall flows year-round, fed by glacial meltwater and precipitation from Eyjafjallajökull. However, flow rates vary significantly with seasons and weather patterns. Spring snowmelt typically produces the most dramatic volume, while late summer may see reduced flow during dry spells.

Parking is available directly off Route 1, with space for approximately 50 vehicles including several designated spots for larger coaches and motorhomes. The car park sits just 200 metres from the falls, making this one of Iceland's most accessible major waterfalls. No permits or advance booking are required.

The site can become extremely crowded during peak summer months, particularly between 11:00 and 16:00 when tour buses arrive in succession. For the best photographic opportunities and a more contemplative experience, visit early morning or evening. The midnight sun during summer months creates exceptional lighting conditions for photography well into the night.

Safety and Equipment

While the walk behind Seljalandsfoss is generally safe for people of reasonable fitness, several hazards require attention. The basalt path becomes extremely slippery when wet, and the constant spray ensures surfaces remain damp. Proper hiking boots with good grip are essential—trainers or smooth-soled shoes are inadequate for safe passage.

Water protection extends beyond simple rain gear. The spray behind the falls will penetrate most standard waterproof clothing given sufficient exposure. Consider waterproof camera protection and pack sensitive electronics in dry bags. The temperature behind the falls drops noticeably due to the cooling effect of the water and lack of direct sunlight, so warm layers are advisable even on mild days.

Children should be closely supervised throughout the walk, as the path has no barriers and the footing can be challenging. The noise level behind the falls makes verbal communication difficult, so establish clear expectations before beginning the walk.

Beyond Seljalandsfoss

The waterfall sits within a remarkable concentration of natural attractions. Skógafoss, perhaps Iceland's most famous waterfall, lies just 30km east along Route 1. The folk museum at Skógar provides excellent context for understanding the cultural history of this dramatic landscape.

Westward, the Westman Islands ferry at Landeyjahöfn sits 20km away, offering access to Heimaey island with its dramatic volcanic landscapes and exceptional puffin colonies during summer months. The combination makes Seljalandsfoss an ideal component of a broader exploration of Iceland's south coast.

Walking behind Seljalandsfoss provides more than a unique perspective on falling water—it offers an intimate encounter with Iceland's geological forces and natural beauty. The experience connects visitors directly with the elemental power that shaped this remarkable landscape, creating memories that extend far beyond the inevitable photographs. In a country defined by dramatic natural phenomena, few experiences match the simple magic of standing behind a thundering waterfall and looking out at the world through a curtain of glacial meltwater.

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