Papey: The Island of the Monks

In the turbulent waters off Iceland's southeastern coast, where the North Atlantic crashes against volcanic shores, lies Papey—a windswept isle that holds within its 2 square kilometres some of Iceland's most intriguing early history. Just 8 kilometres from the mainland fishing village of Djúpivogur, this low-lying island earned its evocative name from the Irish monks who sought solitude here long before Norse settlers arrived in Iceland.

The Hermit Island's Sacred Past

Papey derives its name from the Old Norse word "papar," referring to the Irish Celtic monks who inhabited Iceland before the official settlement period began in 874 AD. These hermit monks, seeking isolation for prayer and contemplation, found in Papey's remote location the perfect sanctuary from worldly distractions. Archaeological evidence suggests they established a small monastic community here, making Papey one of the few places in Iceland where pre-settlement occupation has been definitively documented.

The island's religious significance didn't end with the departure of the Celtic monks. When Norse settlers arrived, they recognised Papey's spiritual importance and maintained it as a place of worship. The ruins of a small stone church, dating from the medieval period, still stand near the island's eastern shore—a testament to centuries of continuous Christian presence on this remote outpost.

A Living Museum of Icelandic Heritage

Today, Papey functions as something of an open-air museum, preserving not only its monastic heritage but also Iceland's more recent maritime history. The island's most prominent structure is a beautifully restored lighthouse, built in 1922 and automated in 1966. Standing 5.2 metres tall, this beacon guided countless fishing vessels through the treacherous waters of the Djúpivogur approach.

The island also boasts Iceland's smallest post office, a charming wooden structure that operated seasonally until 1999. Visitors can still see the building, along with several other historical structures including a renovated fisherman's cottage that now serves as a small museum. These buildings showcase traditional Icelandic construction methods using local stone and driftwood.

Wildlife Sanctuary in the North Atlantic

Beyond its cultural significance, Papey serves as a crucial breeding ground for seabirds. The island hosts one of Iceland's largest puffin colonies, with approximately 30,000 breeding pairs arriving each summer between May and August. The low, grassy terrain provides ideal nesting conditions, while the surrounding waters offer abundant fish stocks.

Alongside puffins, visitors can observe guillemots, razorbills, and various gull species. Arctic terns nest here in significant numbers, their aggressive defence of nesting sites adding drama to summer visits. The island's isolation has created a relatively undisturbed ecosystem where these seabirds can thrive.

Seals frequently haul out on Papey's rocky shores, particularly around the island's southern coast where sheltered coves provide protection from Atlantic swells. Both harbour seals and grey seals are commonly spotted, especially during pupping season in early summer.

Visiting Papey: A Journey Back in Time

Getting There

Papey is accessible only by boat from Djúpivogur, located 468 kilometres from Reykjavík via the Ring Road. The journey to Djúpivogur takes approximately 5.5 hours by car through some of Iceland's most dramatic landscapes, including the glacier-dominated region around Vatnajökull National Park.

From Djúpivogur harbour, local tour operators offer boat trips to Papey during summer months (typically June through August). The crossing takes approximately 45 minutes in favourable conditions, though seas can be rough and trips are weather-dependent. Expect to pay around 12,000 ISK (€85/£75) per person for a half-day excursion including boat transport and guided island tour.

Best Time to Visit

The optimal visiting period runs from June through August when weather conditions are most favourable and puffin populations are at their peak. July offers the best combination of accessible seas and active wildlife, though visitors should always be prepared for changeable weather conditions.

What to Expect

Tours typically allow 2-3 hours on the island, sufficient time to explore the historical sites, observe wildlife, and appreciate the dramatic coastal scenery. The terrain is relatively flat but can be boggy, so waterproof hiking boots are essential. Visitors should dress warmly in layers and bring wind-resistant clothing, as the island offers little shelter from Atlantic gales.

The island has no facilities, so tour operators provide necessary amenities. Photography enthusiasts will find exceptional opportunities, but should protect equipment from salt spray and sudden weather changes.

Planning Your Visit

Papey represents a unique opportunity to experience Iceland's pre-settlement history whilst enjoying some of the country's best seabird watching. The island's combination of archaeological significance, natural beauty, and wildlife abundance makes it a worthwhile detour for travellers exploring Iceland's southeastern region.

Book boat trips well in advance during summer months, as tours are limited and weather-dependent. Consider staying overnight in Djúpivogur to allow flexibility with departure times and to explore this charming fishing village, which offers several excellent restaurants and the fascinating Eggs of Merry Bay outdoor art installation.

For those seeking to understand Iceland's earliest human history whilst experiencing its raw natural beauty, Papey offers an unforgettable journey to where Celtic monks once sought divine inspiration amongst the endless horizons of the North Atlantic.

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