Northeast Iceland: The Diamond Circle and Beyond

Northeast Iceland stands as the country's most underrated frontier, where the raw power of volcanic forces meets the serene beauty of pristine wilderness. The Diamond Circle route has emerged as a compelling alternative to the crowded Golden Circle, offering visitors an authentic taste of Iceland's geological wonders without the tour bus queues. This 250-kilometre circuit through the Norðurland eystra region showcases some of the country's most dramatic waterfalls, active geothermal areas, and otherworldly landscapes.

The Diamond Circle Route

The Diamond Circle encompasses four primary attractions: Dettifoss waterfall, Ásbyrgi canyon, Húsavík whale watching town, and Lake Mývatn's geothermal area. Unlike the Golden Circle's three-hour rush, this route demands at least two days to appreciate properly, with most visitors spending three to four days exploring the region thoroughly.

Starting from Akureyri, Iceland's northern capital, the clockwise route follows the Ring Road east for 103 kilometres to Húsavík, then continues north on Route 85 to Ásbyrgi (65 kilometres), before heading south on Route 862 through Vatnajökull National Park to Dettifoss (26 kilometres), and finally west via the Ring Road and Route 87 around Lake Mývatn back to Akureyri (approximately 90 kilometres).

Dettifoss: Europe's Most Powerful Waterfall

Dettifoss commands respect. This 44-metre-high, 100-metre-wide cascade thunders through Jökulsárgljúfur canyon with an average flow of 193 cubic metres per second, making it Europe's most voluminous waterfall. The thunderous roar carries for kilometres, while the mist creates rainbows on sunny days that can be seen from the viewing platforms on both sides of Jökulsa á Fjöllum river.

Two access routes serve Dettifoss: Route 862 on the west bank offers easier driving conditions and closer parking (500 metres from the falls), whilst the eastern Route 864 provides a more dramatic approach but requires navigating 24 kilometres of gravel road. The eastern viewpoint offers superior photographic angles, particularly for morning light. Both routes are accessible to standard vehicles during summer months (May through October), though 4WD vehicles handle the eastern approach more comfortably.

The area also includes Selfoss, a horseshoe-shaped cascade 1 kilometre upstream, and Hafragilsfoss, located 2 kilometres downstream. These additional falls create a spectacular trilogy within Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, all carved by glacial floods from Vatnajökull glacier over millennia.

Ásbyrgi Canyon: The Horseshoe of the Gods

Ásbyrgi's horseshoe-shaped canyon stretches 3.5 kilometres in length and reaches 1.1 kilometres at its widest point, with vertical cliffs soaring up to 100 metres high. According to Norse mythology, this formation resulted from Sleipnir, Odin's eight-legged horse, touching the ground with one hoof. Geological evidence suggests glacial flooding carved this remarkable amphitheatre approximately 8,000-10,000 years ago.

The canyon floor harbours a lush oasis of birch and rowan trees, creating an unexpected pocket of woodland in this otherwise stark landscape. The 1.5-kilometre walk to Botnstjörn pond at the canyon's far end offers excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, including ptarmigan, ravens, and occasionally Arctic foxes. More adventurous visitors can tackle the 2.5-kilometre trail to Eyjan, the island-like formation at the canyon's heart, which provides panoramic views across the entire formation.

Húsavík: Europe's Whale Watching Capital

Húsavík's Skjálfandi Bay hosts one of Europe's most reliable whale watching destinations, with success rates exceeding 95% during peak season (June through August). The nutrient-rich waters, fed by the East Icelandic Current and Arctic waters, support abundant marine life that attracts multiple whale species.

Humpback whales dominate summer sightings, with blue whales appearing regularly from mid-June through July. Minke whales remain year-round residents, whilst white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises appear frequently. Occasionally, visitors spot sei whales, fin whales, and even orcas.

Several operators run tours from Húsavík harbour, with prices ranging from ISK 8,900-12,900 (€60-85) for adults on traditional boats, whilst high-speed RIB tours cost ISK 14,900-18,900 (€100-125). Tours typically last 3-3.5 hours, with multiple departures daily during summer months. The town's Whale Museum provides excellent context, featuring complete whale skeletons and comprehensive information about North Atlantic marine ecosystems (admission ISK 2,900/€20 for adults).

Lake Mývatn: Geological Wonderland

Lake Mývatn's 37-square-kilometre area contains more geological diversity per square kilometre than virtually anywhere on Earth. This shallow lake, averaging just 2.5 metres deep, sits atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates separate at 2 centimetres annually.

The Mývatn region showcases textbook examples of volcanic formations. Dimmuborgir's lava labyrinth, formed 2,300 years ago when lava flows encountered Lake Mývatn's waters, created towering pillars and caves that Norse mythology designated as the gateway to the underworld. The 2.3-kilometre circular trail through Dimmuborgir requires 45-60 minutes and showcases formations like Kirkjan (The Church) and the prominent Gatklettur arch.

Námafjall's geothermal area demonstrates ongoing volcanic activity with temperatures reaching 250°C just below the surface. The boardwalk trail through the 0.5-square-kilometre field passes dozens of bubbling mud pots and steam vents, whilst the overwhelming sulphur smell confirms the area's geological volatility.

The Mývatn Nature Baths provide a less crowded alternative to the Blue Lagoon, with naturally heated waters averaging 38-40°C rich in minerals and silica. Entry costs ISK 5,500 (€37) for adults, significantly less than comparable facilities elsewhere in Iceland.

Beyond the Diamond Circle

Jökulsárgljúfur National Park

Now part of Vatnajökull National Park, Jökulsárgljúfur extends far beyond the Diamond Circle's highlights. The Hljóðaklettar (Echo Rocks) formation, 7 kilometres south of Ásbyrgi, displays remarkable basalt columns created by volcanic activity and glacial floods. The 1.8-kilometre hiking trail winds through these geometric formations, including the famous Tvisöngur (Twin Song) columns that create acoustic phenomena.

Askja and Víti Crater

For adventurous travellers, Askja caldera represents Northeast Iceland's most remote attraction. This 50-square-kilometre caldera formed during the 1875 eruption that deposited ash across Europe. The journey requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and covers 88 kilometres of challenging mountain roads (F88) from the Ring Road.

Víti crater lake within Askja maintains water temperatures around 25°C year-round, allowing swimming in this remarkable setting surrounded by volcanic desolation. The round trip from the car park takes 45-60 minutes across rough lava fields marked by yellow posts.

Practical Information

The Diamond Circle operates optimally from May through October, when all roads remain accessible to standard vehicles. Winter visits (November-April) require 4WD vehicles and local knowledge, as weather conditions can change rapidly.

Accommodation centres around Akureyri, Húsavík, and the Lake Mývatn area. Akureyri offers the widest selection, from budget hostels (ISK 4,500/€30 per night) to luxury hotels (ISK 25,000-40,000/€170-270 per night). The Mývatn region provides guesthouses and hotels ranging from ISK 15,000-35,000 (€100-235) per night.

Fuel stations operate in Akureyri, Húsavík, and Reykjahlíð (Lake Mývatn), with limited facilities elsewhere. Always maintain adequate fuel reserves when exploring remote areas.

Northeast Iceland rewards visitors with authentic experiences away from mass tourism whilst delivering geological spectacles that rival anywhere in Iceland. The Diamond Circle provides structure, but the region's true treasures await those willing to venture beyond established routes.

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