Lónsöræfi: Iceland's Forgotten Wilderness

Tucked away in Iceland's remote southeast, Lónsöræfi stands as one of the country's most spectacular yet overlooked wilderness areas. This vast highland region, stretching across 400 square kilometres between Vatnajökull National Park and the coastal lowlands, offers some of Iceland's most rewarding hiking experiences for those willing to venture beyond the beaten path.

Pronounced "LOHN-sor-ay-vee" and meaning "the wasteland by Lón," this extraordinary landscape defies its harsh-sounding name. Here, colourful rhyolite mountains rise from glacial valleys, creating a surreal palette of reds, greens, and golds that rivals the famous Landmannalaugar without the crowds. The area's relative anonymity stems partly from its challenging access and partly from its location outside the main tourist circuits—making it a true sanctuary for serious hikers and wilderness enthusiasts.

Geological Wonders and Landscape

Lónsöræfi's distinctive beauty stems from its complex geological history. The region sits atop ancient volcanic bedrock, with extensive rhyolite formations creating the area's signature multicoloured mountains. These volcanic rocks, rich in silica, have weathered into spectacular formations over millennia, whilst glacial action has carved deep valleys and left behind dramatic moraines.

The crown jewel of the region is undoubtedly Illakampur, a striking red and orange mountain that serves as a natural landmark visible from considerable distances. At 1,011 metres, this peak exemplifies the area's geological diversity, its vivid hues created by iron oxidation in the volcanic rock. Nearby, the twin peaks of Kambsmúli (1,127m) and the distinctive pyramid of Kollumúli (1,004m) create an equally impressive skyline.

The region's hydrology is equally remarkable. Numerous rivers, including the Jökulsá í Lóni, have carved intricate valley systems whilst creating challenging ford crossings that add adventure to any hiking expedition. These waterways, fed by glacial melt and highland precipitation, support surprisingly lush vegetation in the valley floors, creating stark contrasts with the stark highland plateaux above.

The Highland Circuit: Lónsöræfi's Crown Trail

The premier hiking experience in Lónsöræfi is the Highland Circuit, a challenging 4-6 day trek covering approximately 55 kilometres through the region's most spectacular terrain. This demanding route requires serious preparation and experience in wilderness hiking, as it involves river crossings, unmarked sections, and exposure to rapidly changing weather conditions.

Starting from the Stafafell area, accessible via Route 1 and then the F980 track, the circuit typically follows a clockwise direction through the highland plateau. The first day involves a steep ascent from the coastal lowlands, gaining nearly 800 metres of elevation over 12 kilometres to reach the highland zone. This initial climb rewards hikers with panoramic views across the Lón area and out to the North Atlantic.

Day two typically covers the traverse to Illakampur base camp, a distance of 14 kilometres across undulating highland terrain. This section requires careful navigation, as the route is marked only by occasional cairns. The reward is camping beneath the spectacular red cliffs of Illakampur, with opportunities for peak bagging and photography.

The circuit's most challenging section comes on day three: the crossing of the northern plateau and descent into the Múli valley system. This 16-kilometre stage involves multiple river crossings and route-finding across unmarked terrain. The geological diversity reaches its peak here, with opportunities to explore colourful rhyolite formations and hidden valleys that few visitors ever witness.

Access and Practicalities

Reaching Lónsöræfi requires commitment and proper preparation. The primary access point is via the F980 track from Route 1, approximately 10 kilometres west of Höfn. This rough highland road demands a capable 4WD vehicle and confident driving skills, particularly for the river crossings that mark the final approach to trailheads.

Alternative access exists via the F985 from Breiðdalsvík, though this route involves even more challenging driving conditions and should only be attempted by experienced highland drivers with suitable vehicles. The drive from Reykjavík to the F980 turnoff covers 458 kilometres and takes approximately 5.5 hours under normal conditions.

Accommodation options are limited, reflecting the area's wilderness character. Wild camping is permitted and expected, though campers must follow Leave No Trace principles strictly. The nearest services are in Höfn, 30 kilometres from the F980 turnoff, where hikers can resupply and arrange equipment rental if needed.

Planning Your Adventure

The hiking season in Lónsöræfi runs from mid-June through early September, with July and August offering the most stable conditions. Even during peak season, weather can change rapidly, with temperatures ranging from 2°C to 15°C and significant wind chill factors on exposed ridges.

Essential equipment includes a robust four-season tent, waterproof clothing, river crossing gear, and detailed topographic maps (the 1:50,000 series covering this area). GPS navigation is strongly recommended, as weather conditions can reduce visibility to mere metres without warning.

Water is generally available from streams throughout the hiking season, though purification is advisable. Food must be carried for the entire duration, as no huts or supply points exist within the wilderness area.

The Reward of Solitude

Perhaps Lónsöræfi's greatest gift to visitors is its solitude. On a typical week in high summer, hikers may encounter fewer than a dozen other people across the entire region. This isolation creates opportunities for wildlife observation, with Arctic foxes, ptarmigan, and various seabird species calling the area home.

The region's remoteness also offers exceptional opportunities for photography and contemplation. Sunrise and sunset light on the coloured mountains creates conditions that rival any location in Iceland, whilst the absence of light pollution makes for spectacular aurora viewing during the shoulder seasons.

For experienced hikers seeking to explore Iceland beyond its famous attractions, Lónsöræfi represents an unparalleled opportunity to experience true wilderness in one of Europe's last great wild places. The challenges are real, but for those prepared to meet them, the rewards are extraordinary.

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