Laugavegur Stage 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur (Botnar)

The third stage of the Laugavegur trek presents hikers with one of the trail's most dramatic and rewarding days, covering 15 kilometres through some of Iceland's most diverse highland terrain. This section transforms from the serene lakeside setting of Álftavatn into the stark volcanic wilderness surrounding Emstrur (also known as Botnar), offering an extraordinary journey through black sand deserts, ancient lava fields, and the haunting beauty of Markarfljótsgljúfur canyon.

Route Overview and Terrain

The stage begins at an elevation of 420 metres at Álftavatn and gradually climbs to 540 metres before descending into the Emstrur valley system. Unlike the previous day's relatively gentle terrain, Stage 3 demands greater technical attention as hikers navigate loose volcanic scree, unbridged river crossings, and potentially challenging weather exposure across open highland plains.

The route initially follows the southern shore of Álftavatn before ascending onto the Stórasúla plateau, a vast expanse of black volcanic sand punctuated by resilient patches of Arctic willow and moss campion. The trail markers become crucial here, as the landscape can appear monotonously similar during poor visibility, and GPS navigation proves invaluable as backup.

Geological Highlights

The Stórasúla Desert

The middle section of Stage 3 crosses the Stórasúla, a remarkable volcanic desert formed by centuries of tephra deposits from nearby volcanic systems. This 8-kilometre stretch showcases Iceland's raw geological power, where the Eyjafjallajökull and Katla volcanic systems have deposited layers of volcanic ash, creating an almost lunar landscape.

The black sand here isn't merely decorative—it represents some of the youngest geological formations in Iceland, with deposits dating back only centuries rather than millennia. Hikers often report an otherworldly silence in this section, broken only by wind and the crunch of volcanic glass beneath their boots.

Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon

The stage's dramatic finale involves the descent into Markarfljótsgljúfur, one of Iceland's most spectacular yet lesser-known canyon systems. Carved by the powerful Markarfljót river over thousands of years, this gorge plunges over 200 metres deep in places, its walls revealing distinct geological layers that tell the story of Iceland's volcanic evolution.

The canyon's formation began during the last ice age when glacial floods carved initial channels, later deepened by persistent river erosion and periodic jökulhlaups (glacial outburst floods) from the nearby Mýrdalsjökull glacier system.

River Crossings and Navigation Challenges

Stage 3 presents the Laugavegur's most significant river crossing at the Fremri-Emstruá, located approximately 2 kilometres before reaching the Emstrur huts. During normal summer conditions, this crossing involves knee-deep wading through glacial runoff, but snowmelt and rainfall can transform this into a genuinely hazardous obstacle.

The crossing point is marked by distinctive cairns on both sides, but hikers should always assess conditions carefully. The water temperature rarely exceeds 4°C, and the current can be deceptively strong. Experienced highland hikers recommend crossing in groups, using trekking poles for stability, and wearing appropriate footwear that provides grip on slippery river stones.

Wildlife and Flora

Despite the seemingly barren appearance of much of Stage 3, the route supports remarkable highland wildlife. Arctic foxes frequently hunt in this area, particularly around the Álftavatn lake system where their primary prey, ptarmigan, congregate during summer months. Hikers with keen eyes may spot fox dens among the rocky outcrops near the canyon edges.

The flora demonstrates extraordinary adaptation to harsh conditions. Iceland moss (Racomitrium canescens) dominates much of the landscape, creating the characteristic grey-green carpet that helps stabilise the volcanic soil. Near water sources, hikers encounter dense patches of angelica and Arctic willow, while the protected areas around Emstrur support some of Iceland's rarest alpine plants, including glacier buttercup and moss campion.

Weather Considerations and Safety

Stage 3's exposed terrain makes it particularly vulnerable to Iceland's notoriously changeable weather. The Stórasúla plateau offers virtually no natural shelter, and sudden storms can reduce visibility to mere metres while generating dangerous wind chill. The Icelandic Met Office reports that this section experiences wind speeds exceeding 20 metres per second during approximately 40 days each summer.

Temperature variations can be extreme, with morning starts often beginning near freezing even in July, while afternoon sun on the black volcanic surfaces can create surprisingly warm microclimates. Layered clothing systems prove essential, as does waterproof gear—the highland precipitation here averages 2,400mm annually, significantly higher than coastal areas.

Accommodation at Emstrur

The Emstrur hut complex, operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Association), provides essential refuge after this challenging stage. The facility includes a 60-bed mountain hut (3,900 ISK per night for FÍ members, 5,850 ISK for non-members) and extensive camping areas (1,950 ISK per person including access to facilities).

The huts feature cooking facilities, running water, and flush toilets—luxury amenities that feel particularly welcome after a day traversing volcanic deserts. The warden typically maintains detailed weather forecasts and trail condition updates, proving invaluable for planning the following day's stage to Þórsmörk.

Timing and Logistics

Most experienced hikers complete Stage 3 in 6-8 hours, though conditions can extend this considerably. The optimal departure time from Álftavatn is between 8:00-9:00, allowing arrival at Emstrur with adequate daylight for camp setup and weather assessment.

The stage requires no special permits beyond standard Laugavegur access, but hikers should inform hut wardens of their intended departure times and group size. Mobile phone coverage exists intermittently, particularly on higher elevations, though emergency communication should rely on satellite devices or emergency beacons in this remote highland environment.

This remarkable stage epitomises the Laugavegur's reputation as one of the world's premier hiking experiences, combining genuine wilderness challenge with landscapes that exist nowhere else on Earth.

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