Laugavegur Stage 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

The second stage of the Laugavegur trek delivers one of Iceland's most dramatic geological transitions, taking hikers from the obsidian wonderland of Hrafntinnusker through the otherworldly Reykjadalur valley to the serene lakeside setting of Álftavatn. This 12-kilometre stage presents moderate challenges whilst offering some of the most spectacular scenery on the entire trail.

The Route Overview

Stage 2 begins at 1,128 metres above sea level at Hrafntinnusker hut, descending through a landscape that shifts from volcanic glass fields to snow patches, steaming fumaroles, and eventually to the verdant shores of Álftavatn at 490 metres elevation. The total descent of 638 metres makes this stage easier on the legs than the previous day's climb, though snow bridges and loose volcanic terrain demand careful attention.

Most hikers complete this stage in 4-6 hours, though photography enthusiasts often extend their day to capture the extraordinary geological features. The trail is well-marked with yellow poles, essential navigation aids when visibility drops in the frequent mountain weather changes.

Departing Hrafntinnusker

The trail initially heads southeast from the hut, immediately immersing hikers in fields of rhyolite and obsidian. These volcanic glass formations, created by rapid cooling of silica-rich lava, glisten like black mirrors when wet. The name Hrafntinnusker translates to "raven's glass skerry," perfectly capturing this landscape's essence.

Within the first kilometre, you'll encounter numerous geothermal features. Steam vents pierce through the ground at temperatures reaching 80-90°C, creating an ethereal atmosphere particularly striking in cool morning air. The contrast between the cold mountain environment and these thermal anomalies highlights Iceland's position atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.

Through Reykjadalur Valley

After 3 kilometres, the trail enters Reykjadalur (Steam Valley), a geothermal wonderland distinct from the more famous valley of the same name near Hveragerði. Here, the landscape transforms into a palette of mineral-stained earth—ochre yellows from sulphur deposits, rust reds from iron oxidation, and brilliant greens from heat-loving algae thriving in the warm streams.

The valley floor contains dozens of hot springs and mud pots, with some pools reaching temperatures of 75°C. Whilst tempting for a soak, these natural features are fragile ecosystems requiring protection. The designated camping area at Reykjadalur, 4 kilometres from Hrafntinnusker, provides the stage's only official overnight option besides the endpoint.

Navigation through Reykjadalur requires attention, particularly in poor visibility. The trail crosses several thermal streams via small bridges or designated fording points. Stream temperatures vary dramatically—some are pleasantly warm whilst others can cause burns. Always test water temperature carefully and follow marked crossings.

Snow Fields and Weather Challenges

Between June and August, substantial snow fields persist across the higher elevations of this stage. These snow bridges, particularly treacherous in afternoon warmth, can conceal thermal features or unstable ground. Early morning crossings when snow is firmest prove safest.

Weather changes rapidly at this elevation. Temperatures can drop from 15°C to near freezing within hours, whilst visibility can reduce to mere metres during sudden fog banks or snow squalls. Essential gear includes waterproof layers, warm insulation, and proper hiking boots with good traction. Many experienced hikers carry lightweight crampons for icy conditions.

Descending to Álftavatn

The final 5 kilometres provide welcome relief as the trail descends steadily toward Álftavatn. The harsh volcanic terrain gradually gives way to hardy mountain vegetation—Arctic willow, moss campion, and Iceland's endemic buttercups create splashes of green and yellow against the dark volcanic soil.

The descent offers increasingly impressive views of Álftavatn, the "swan lake" that serves as the stage's destination. This 2-kilometre-long lake sits in a glacial valley carved during the last ice age, its waters fed by snowmelt and underground springs maintaining a consistent cool temperature year-round.

Arriving at Álftavatn

Álftavatn hut sits on the lake's northern shore at 490 metres elevation, providing accommodation for 75 hikers in dormitory-style sleeping quarters. The hut features cooking facilities, flush toilets, and a common area perfect for drying gear and sharing trail experiences. Sleeping bag accommodation costs 6,800 ISK (approximately €50) per night, with advance booking essential during peak season (July-August).

The camping area extends along the lakeshore, offering level ground for up to 100 tents. Camping fees are 2,000 ISK (€14) per person, with access to hut facilities for an additional charge. The lake's shores provide excellent water collection points, though purification tablets or filtration remain advisable.

Wildlife and Photography

Álftavatn justifies its name with regular whooper swan sightings, particularly during early summer when breeding pairs establish territories. Pink-footed geese, common redshank, and various duck species also frequent these waters. The lake's mirror-like surface at dawn creates exceptional photographic opportunities, reflecting the surrounding peaks in perfect symmetry.

Planning Considerations

Stage 2 typically begins early morning to allow adequate time for geological exploration and safe snow field crossings. The trail's exposed nature makes weather monitoring crucial—conditions at Hrafntinnusker often differ dramatically from those at Álftavatn.

Emergency shelter exists at the Reykjadalur camping area, though the basic stone windbreaks provide minimal protection. Mobile phone coverage is sporadic, making personal locator beacons advisable for solo hikers. The nearest road access lies 22 kilometres away at Landmannalaugar via backtracking Stage 1.

This remarkable stage encapsulates Iceland's geological drama whilst providing a manageable introduction to the Laugavegur's challenges. The transition from otherworldly thermal features to peaceful lakeside respite offers hikers both adventure and recovery, perfectly positioning them for the trek's remaining stages ahead.

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