Hveravellir: The Highland Oasis

Deep in Iceland's uninhabited interior, where black volcanic sands stretch endlessly beneath Arctic skies, Hveravellir emerges like a vision from another world. This geothermal wonderland sits at 641 metres above sea level in the Kjölur highland route, roughly equidistant between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. For centuries, this steaming oasis has provided sanctuary for travellers crossing Iceland's brutal central highlands, and today it remains one of the country's most accessible yet pristine highland destinations.

A Geological Marvel

Hveravellir's name translates to "hot spring plains," a modest description for what ranks among Iceland's most concentrated geothermal fields. The area sits atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates drift apart at roughly 2 centimetres per year. This geological tension creates the perfect conditions for underground water to heat against molten rock, eventually erupting through the earth's surface as hot springs, mud pots, and steam vents.

The geothermal field spans approximately 2.5 square kilometres, featuring over 100 thermal features of varying sizes and temperatures. The largest hot spring, Blahver (Blue Spring), maintains a consistent temperature of 98°C and produces roughly 180 litres of water per second. Its mineral-rich waters create stunning azure pools that contrast dramatically against the surrounding black volcanic rock and moss-covered lava fields.

Öskurhólshver stands as the area's most impressive geyser, though it erupts irregularly compared to its famous southern cousins Geysir and Strokkur. When active, it can shoot scalding water up to 20 metres into the air, creating spectacular displays that echo across the highland silence.

Historical Significance

Long before modern roads penetrated Iceland's interior, Hveravellir served as a crucial waystation on the Kjalvegur (Kjölur route), one of only two traditional highland passages connecting northern and southern Iceland. Medieval sagas reference this route as early as the 12th century, when hardy farmers drove their sheep between summer and winter pastures.

The area's most notorious historical figure was Eyvindur of the Mountains (Fjalla-Eyvindur), an 18th-century outlaw who lived in the highlands for over 20 years with his wife Halla. They built a stone shelter beside one of Hveravellir's hot springs, using the geothermal heat for warmth and cooking. The reconstructed ruins of their hut remain visible today, a testament to human survival in one of Europe's most unforgiving environments.

The Highland Sanctuary Today

Modern Hveravellir centres around a small mountain hut operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Association), which provides accommodation for 70 people in dormitory-style rooms. The hut operates from late June through September, with overnight stays costing approximately 8,500 ISK (£50/€58/$64) per person in sleeping bag accommodation. Meals are available for purchase, though many visitors bring their own supplies.

The area's crown jewel is the natural hot pool constructed beside the hut, fed by the Gamla Laugin spring at a perfect bathing temperature of 37-39°C. This pool offers one of Iceland's most extraordinary soaking experiences: submerging in naturally heated water whilst surrounded by steaming fumaroles, with views extending across the vast highland wilderness to distant glacial peaks.

Adjacent to the main pool, a smaller, hotter spring reaches temperatures of 42-44°C, perfect for those seeking a more intense thermal experience. The mineral content of these waters, particularly high in silica and sulphur, is renowned for its therapeutic properties.

Access and Planning

Hveravellir lies 161 kilometres from Reykjavík via the F35 Kjalvegur route, making it one of Iceland's most accessible highland destinations. The F35 is generally suitable for high-clearance vehicles rather than requiring full 4WD capability, though conditions vary significantly with weather and season.

The highland roads typically open in mid-June, though the exact date depends on snow conditions and spring weather patterns. Road.is provides daily updates on F-road conditions, essential reading before departure. The route remains accessible through September, with October being unpredictable due to early winter storms.

Several scheduled highland bus services operate during summer months. Reykjavík Excursions runs day trips to Hveravellir as part of their Kjölur route service, with round-trip costs starting at 15,900 ISK (£95/€110/$121). These services typically operate from mid-June through early September.

Safety and Preparation

Highland travel in Iceland demands serious preparation and respect for rapidly changing conditions. Weather can shift from calm sunshine to blizzard conditions within hours, even during summer months. Essential equipment includes warm clothing, waterproof gear, extra food, and emergency supplies.

The geothermal features at Hveravellir present their own hazards. Ground around hot springs can be unstable, with temperatures exceeding 100°C just beneath seemingly solid surfaces. Visitors must stay on marked paths and exercise constant vigilance, particularly when travelling with children.

Mobile phone coverage is non-existent throughout most of the highland route. Rental car companies typically provide emergency beacons with highland-capable vehicles, though these should complement rather than replace proper preparation and communication planning.

Beyond the Springs

Hveravellir serves as an excellent base for exploring the broader Kjölur route. The Kerlingarfjöll mountain range lies 45 kilometres southeast, offering some of Iceland's most spectacular highland hiking through rhyolite peaks painted in brilliant reds, yellows, and oranges by geothermal activity.

To the west, Langjökull glacier—Iceland's second-largest ice cap—dominates the horizon. Several tour operators offer glacier activities from Hveravellir, including snowmobiling and ice cave exploration during the summer months.

The Highland Experience

Visiting Hveravellir transcends typical tourist experiences. Here, stripped of modern distractions, visitors encounter Iceland's raw geological power and the profound silence of the uninhabited interior. The contrast between the warm, life-giving springs and the surrounding volcanic wilderness creates an almost spiritual experience that captures the essence of Iceland's dramatic landscape.

Whether arriving for a day trip's hot spring soak or using the mountain hut as a base for deeper highland exploration, Hveravellir offers an authentic encounter with Iceland's most fundamental forces: fire, ice, and the restless earth that shapes this extraordinary island.

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