Hrísey: The Island in the Fjord

In the heart of Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord, lies Hrísey—a verdant island that offers one of the country's most tranquil escapes. Just 7.5 kilometres long and 2.5 kilometres at its widest point, this small island punches well above its weight in terms of natural beauty and historical significance. Known as the "Pearl of Eyjafjörður," Hrísey presents visitors with a rare glimpse of Iceland's gentler side, where dramatic volcanic landscapes give way to rolling green hills and peaceful walking paths.

A Living Landscape

Hrísey's charm lies in its remarkable preservation of Iceland's original birch woodland. Before human settlement, much of Iceland was covered in birch forests, but centuries of logging and grazing reduced these woodlands to scattered remnants. On Hrísey, however, these native forests have survived largely intact, creating a unique ecosystem that feels almost otherworldly compared to Iceland's typically stark terrain.

The island rises to 110 metres above sea level at its highest point, offering commanding views across Eyjafjörður to the snow-capped peaks of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula. Arctic terns nest here in significant numbers during summer months, their distinctive cries providing a constant soundtrack to any visit. The island also serves as an important stopover for migratory birds, with over 40 species recorded, including ptarmigan, redwing, and the occasional gyrfalcon.

What makes Hrísey particularly special is its car-free environment. The island maintains only essential service vehicles, creating an atmosphere of profound quiet broken only by birdsong and the gentle lapping of fjord waters against the shore. This commitment to preservation extends to the island's grazing management, where sheep roam freely but in carefully controlled numbers to maintain the delicate balance of the ecosystem.

Reaching the Island

The ferry Sævar departs from Árskógssandur, a small harbour 25 kilometres north of Akureyri along Route 82. The 15-minute crossing operates year-round, though schedules vary seasonally. During summer (June through August), ferries run approximately every two hours from 09:00 to 22:00, with the first return ferry at 09:30 and the last at 22:30. Winter services are more limited, typically running four times daily.

Ferry tickets cost 1,900 ISK (approximately €13/£11/$14) for adults return, with children under 12 travelling free. Bicycles can be transported for an additional 600 ISK. The small ferry holds around 20 passengers, and whilst reservations aren't essential during most periods, booking ahead is advisable during peak summer months and for the evening crossings popular with sunset photographers.

Árskógssandur itself is easily reached by car from Akureyri via the scenic Route 82, which hugs the western shore of Eyjafjörður. The drive takes approximately 30 minutes and offers spectacular fjord views. A small car park at the ferry terminal is free of charge, though spaces can fill up on busy summer days.

Exploring Hrísey

The island's single settlement clusters around the harbour, home to roughly 180 permanent residents. The village maintains essential services including a small shop, café, and guesthouse, all within easy walking distance of the ferry terminal. The island's road network consists of well-maintained gravel paths perfect for walking, and several marked hiking trails lead through the birch forests and along the coastline.

The most popular walk follows the island's southern shore, a 6-kilometre route that can be completed comfortably in two hours. This path offers superb views back towards the mainland and passes through some of Hrísey's most pristine woodland areas. For those seeking a shorter excursion, the walk to Háey, the island's highest point, takes approximately 45 minutes each way and rewards visitors with panoramic views across the entire fjord system.

The island's cultural centrepiece is the Shark Museum (Hákarla safn), housed in a traditional turf-roofed building near the harbour. This modest but fascinating collection details the history of shark fishing in Eyjafjörður, including the processing of hákarl, Iceland's notorious fermented shark delicacy. Entry costs 1,000 ISK (€7/£6/$8) and includes a tasting for the adventurous—though the museum thoughtfully provides strong brennivín schnapps as a chaser.

Seasonal Considerations

Hrísey transforms dramatically with the seasons, each offering distinct experiences. Summer visits (June through August) provide the longest days, warmest weather, and fullest ferry schedule. This period sees the island at its greenest, with lupins painting hillsides purple and the midnight sun casting ethereal light across the fjord well into the evening hours.

Spring (April-May) brings migrating birds and the first green shoots emerging from winter dormancy. Ferry services increase gradually during this period, and accommodation costs are typically lower than peak season rates. Weather remains changeable, so waterproof clothing is essential.

Winter visits offer a more challenging but potentially rewarding experience. The reduced ferry schedule requires careful planning, but visitors may witness the northern lights dancing above the fjord on clear nights. The island's few facilities operate reduced hours, and some walking paths may be icy or snow-covered.

Practical Essentials

Hrísey's single guesthouse, Brekka Guesthouse, offers comfortable accommodation in traditional Icelandic style. Rooms cost from 18,000 ISK (€125/£105/$135) per night during summer, including breakfast. Booking well in advance is essential, particularly for weekend stays.

The island's café, Víti, serves simple but satisfying meals focusing on local ingredients, including fresh fish from the fjord and lamb from the island's own flocks. A basic lunch costs around 2,500-3,500 ISK (€17-24/£15-20/$20-27).

Weather on Hrísey tends to be milder than much of northern Iceland due to the fjord's sheltering effect, but conditions can change rapidly. Waterproof clothing and sturdy walking boots are recommended regardless of season. Mobile phone coverage is reliable throughout the island.

For day visitors, the key consideration is ferry timing. Missing the last ferry means an unplanned overnight stay, as no other transport options exist. Always confirm return times upon arrival, particularly during winter months when schedules may change due to weather conditions.

Hrísey represents Iceland at its most peaceful—a place where the country's gentle side takes precedence over its volcanic drama, offering visitors a chance to experience the landscapes that once covered much of this remarkable island nation.

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