Highlands Itinerary: 3–4 Days in Summer

Iceland's highlands represent the country's most untamed wilderness—a vast interior plateau of volcanic deserts, glacial rivers, and geothermal valleys accessible only during the brief summer months. This challenging landscape demands respect, proper preparation, and a 4WD vehicle, but rewards adventurous travellers with some of Europe's most extraordinary scenery.

Essential Prerequisites

The highlands are strictly a summer destination, with most F-roads opening between late June and early September. You'll need a genuine 4WD vehicle—not just AWD—capable of fording unbridged rivers up to 60cm deep. Rental costs start around 25,000 ISK (€170) per day for a basic highland-capable vehicle like a Dacia Duster, rising to 45,000 ISK (€300) daily for larger models like a Toyota Land Cruiser.

Stock up on fuel, food, and water before departing—highland fuel stations are virtually non-existent, and you'll cover 800-1,200km depending on your chosen routes. Download offline maps and inform someone of your itinerary, as mobile coverage is sporadic at best.

Day 1: Kjölur Route to Kerlingarfjöll

Begin your highland adventure via the Kjölur route (F35), Iceland's most accessible highland crossing. This 170km track connects the south to northern Iceland through the gap between Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers.

Your first major stop comes at Gullfoss waterfall—technically not in the highlands but the natural launching point for Kjölur. From here, F35 climbs steadily through increasingly barren terrain, passing Geysir geothermal area's distant steam clouds.

The landscape transforms dramatically as you ascend onto the Kjölur plateau at 600-700m elevation. Volcanic gravel gives way to tundra-like vegetation punctuated by glacial streams and distant ice caps. After 85km from Gullfoss, reach Hveravellir, a remarkable geothermal oasis where hot springs bubble amidst the desolation.

Hveravellir features a mountain hut offering basic accommodation (8,500 ISK/€57 per person in sleeping bag accommodation) and simple meals. The site's highlight is Öskurhólshver, a powerful hot spring reaching 100°C, and Reykjadalur valley's steaming fumaroles.

Continue 45km northeast to your day's destination: Kerlingarfjöll Nature Reserve. These rhyolite mountains, rising to 1,477m at Snækollur peak, harbour one of Iceland's most spectacular geothermal areas. The mountain lodge here (15,000 ISK/€100 per night for basic rooms) provides comfortable accommodation amidst this otherworldly landscape.

Spend the evening exploring the lower geothermal valleys—Hveradalir's rainbow-coloured hillsides and hissing steam vents create an almost Martian atmosphere as evening light transforms the rhyolite into brilliant oranges and yellows.

Day 2: Kerlingarfjöll Exploration and Sprengisandur Approach

Rise early for Kerlingarfjöll's crown jewel hike: the Hveradalir geothermal valley trail. This 4km loop (2-3 hours) winds through actively steaming ground where surface temperatures reach 80°C. Stay strictly on marked paths—the crust around geothermal features can be dangerously thin.

The trail climbs 200m through a landscape of boiling mud pots, steam vents, and mineral-stained earth. At the valley's head, panoramic views encompass Hofsjökull glacier's vast ice dome and the Sprengisandur desert stretching southward.

For stronger hikers, consider ascending Snækollur (1,477m), Kerlingarfjöll's highest peak. This challenging 8km return hike (4-5 hours) rewards with summit views across central Iceland's entire highland region.

Depart Kerlingarfjöll by early afternoon, driving 25km back to rejoin F35. Turn south onto F26 (Sprengisandur route), beginning your traverse of Iceland's largest highland desert. This ancient route, used by medieval travellers crossing between north and south, cuts through a landscape so desolate it served as astronaut training ground for Apollo missions.

The initial 40km of F26 from Kjölur junction passes through relatively green highlands before reaching Sprengisandur proper—a black volcanic desert stretching endlessly toward distant mountains. Your destination is Nýidalur mountain hut, 85km south through this moonscape.

Nýidalur sits in splendid isolation at 842m elevation, providing basic accommodation (7,500 ISK/€50 per person) and spectacular views of Vatnajökull glacier's northern edge. The surrounding area offers excellent hiking, including routes toward Tungnafellsjökull glacier outlet.

Day 3: Sprengisandur to Landmannalaugar

Today brings the journey's longest driving day—120km from Nýidalur to Landmannalaugar via F26 and F208. The route initially continues south through Sprengisandur's heart, where Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers dominate eastern and western horizons respectively.

After 60km, F26 reaches its highest point at Vonarskarð pass (900m), offering sweeping views across the highland plateau. The landscape gradually transitions from black desert to the colourful rhyolite terrain characterising Iceland's southern highlands.

Turn west onto F208 at Landmannalaugar junction—this final 25km stretch includes several river crossings requiring careful navigation. The reward is arrival at Iceland's most famous highland destination: Landmannalaugar.

This geothermal wonderland sits within Fjallabak Nature Reserve, where rainbow-coloured mountains surround hot springs perfect for soaking trail-weary muscles. The mountain hut complex (9,500 ISK/€64 per night) provides accommodation, meals, and limited supplies.

Landmannalaugar's signature hike climbs Bláhnjúkur (943m), the blue peak dominating the area's skyline. This moderate 4km return walk (2-3 hours) ascends 350m through otherworldly terrain where obsidian flows meet rhyolite formations. Summit views encompass the entire Fjallabak region, including Hekla volcano 30km southwest.

End your day soaking in Landmannalaugar's natural hot springs—a blissful 36-40°C pool fed by underground geothermal activity. Few experiences match watching sunset paint the surrounding peaks while relaxing in these therapeutic waters.

Day 4: Landmannalaugar Extended Exploration or Return

Your final day offers two options depending on your schedule and energy levels. Ambitious hikers might tackle a portion of the famous Laugavegur trail, Iceland's premier multi-day trek. Even a day hike toward Hrafntinnusker (6km each way, 4-5 hours) provides spectacular highland scenery and insight into why this route ranks among the world's best treks.

Alternatively, explore Landmannalaugar's immediate surroundings more thoroughly. The easier Laugahraun lava field walk (3km loop, 1 hour) traverses a 15th-century obsidian flow where volcanic glass creates a landscape of extraordinary beauty. Guided tours explain the geological processes creating this unique environment.

Photography enthusiasts should revisit Bláhnjúkur in different light conditions—morning illumination reveals details invisible during afternoon visits. The interplay between volcanic minerals and changing light creates an ever-shifting palette of colours.

For your return journey, most visitors follow F208 to F26, then F35 back to the main road system—a 3-4 hour drive to Reykjavík via Þingvellir National Park. This route provides final highland views while gradually transitioning back to Iceland's more familiar lowland landscapes.

Planning Your Highland Adventure

Budget 80,000-120,000 ISK (€540-810) per person for vehicle rental, accommodation, and meals over 3-4 days. Book mountain hut accommodation in advance during peak season (July-August)—these remote lodges fill quickly.

Pack warm, waterproof clothing regardless of weather forecasts. Highland temperatures can drop below freezing even in summer, and weather changes rapidly. Essential items include extra food, water, emergency shelter, first aid kit, and communication device.

The highlands demand respect and preparation, but offer rewards found nowhere else on Earth. This landscape of fire and ice, carved by volcanic forces and glacial action, provides an unforgettable glimpse into our planet's raw power and beauty.

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