Hengifoss: Iceland's Second Highest Waterfall

Standing 128 metres tall amongst the dramatic basalt cliffs of East Iceland, Hengifoss commands attention as the country's second-highest waterfall. This geological masterpiece near Egilsstaðir showcases Iceland's volcanic history through spectacular striped cliff faces, where red clay layers chronicle ancient eruptions that shaped this remarkable landscape millions of years ago.

The Geological Wonder

Hengifoss, whose name translates to "hanging waterfall," plunges from the Hengifossá river over cliff faces that read like pages from Earth's ancient history. The waterfall's most striking feature isn't merely its impressive height—though at 128 metres it's surpassed only by Glymur's 196-metre drop—but the extraordinary geological canvas that frames it.

The cliff face displays alternating layers of dark basalt and vivid red clay, creating horizontal stripes that stretch across the rockface like nature's own geological timeline. These red clay layers, formed between volcanic eruptions over millions of years, contain iron compounds that oxidised to create the striking rust-red colouration. During periods of volcanic inactivity, sediments accumulated and were later baked by subsequent lava flows, preserving this remarkable record of Iceland's tumultuous geological past.

The Hike to Hengifoss

The journey to Hengifoss begins at a well-marked car park beside Route 931, approximately 25 kilometres southwest of Egilsstaðir. The trail extends 2.4 kilometres each way, climbing steadily through diverse terrain that showcases East Iceland's unique landscape character.

Trail Details and Terrain

The path initially follows the Hengifossá river valley through relatively flat moorland before beginning a more demanding ascent over rocky terrain. Well-maintained throughout its length, the trail features wooden boardwalks across boggy sections and stone steps on steeper inclines. The total elevation gain reaches approximately 200 metres, making this a moderate hike suitable for most fitness levels.

Roughly halfway along the trail, hikers encounter Litlanesfoss, a stunning 30-metre waterfall that deserves recognition in its own right. This smaller cascade tumbles over perfectly formed basalt columns—hexagonal rock formations created when lava cools slowly and contracts uniformly. These geometric columns, reminiscent of Northern Ireland's Giant's Causeway or Iceland's more famous Reynisfjara beach, provide an excellent preview of the geological wonders ahead.

Navigation and Waymarking

Orange-topped posts mark the route clearly, though the path becomes less obvious during winter months when snow obscures lower markers. The final approach to Hengifoss involves scrambling over loose rocks, requiring careful footing, particularly when wet. While the trail presents no technical climbing challenges, sturdy hiking boots with good grip prove essential, especially during Iceland's unpredictable weather conditions.

Best Time to Visit

Hengifoss rewards visitors year-round, though each season offers distinctly different experiences. Summer months (June through August) provide the most comfortable hiking conditions, with the midnight sun illuminating the waterfall's red clay layers in extraordinary golden light during evening hours.

Spring brings increased water flow as snowmelt swells the Hengifossá river, creating the most powerful and dramatic cascade. However, trail conditions can be challenging during this period, with muddy sections and potentially icy patches at higher elevations.

Winter visits offer spectacular ice formations when the waterfall partially freezes, creating otherworldly blue ice sculptures against the red-striped cliff face. However, daylight hours are severely limited (as few as four hours in December), and weather conditions can change rapidly. Winter hikers should carry headtorches, extra layers, and inform others of their planned route.

Autumn presents perhaps the most photogenic conditions, with lower water levels revealing more detail in the rock formations while crisp air provides excellent visibility for photography.

Access and Practical Information

Getting There

From Egilsstaðir, follow Route 1 west for 5 kilometres before turning south onto Route 931 (signposted for Hengifoss). Continue for 20 kilometres to reach the designated car park. The gravel road is suitable for conventional vehicles during summer months, though a 4WD vehicle provides additional confidence during spring and autumn when conditions can deteriorate.

Public transport doesn't serve this route directly, making a hire car essential for independent travellers. Several tour operators in Egilsstaðir offer half-day excursions to Hengifoss, typically costing 8,000-12,000 ISK (€55-85) per person.

Facilities and Costs

The car park provides basic facilities including an information board detailing the route and local geology. No entrance fee applies, though donations support trail maintenance through a collection box at the trailhead.

The nearest services are in Egilsstaðir, where numerous restaurants, accommodation options, and fuel stations cater to travellers. Plan to carry water and snacks, as the return hike typically requires 2-3 hours depending on fitness levels and photography stops.

Photography and Safety Considerations

Hengifoss offers exceptional photographic opportunities, particularly during golden hour when side-lighting enhances the cliff face's dramatic red striations. The viewing area provides safe vantage points for photography, though the temptation to venture closer to the waterfall's base should be resisted due to loose rocks and unstable ground.

Weather conditions change rapidly in this exposed location. Carry waterproof clothing regardless of forecasts, as mist from the waterfall can soak unwary visitors even on clear days. Mobile phone coverage is intermittent, making proper preparation essential.

The Broader Context

Hengifoss forms part of East Iceland's exceptional geological landscape, where ancient volcanic activity created some of Europe's most spectacular rock formations. The region's relative remoteness has preserved these natural wonders largely unchanged, offering visitors genuine wilderness experiences increasingly rare in modern Europe.

This remarkable waterfall stands as testament to Iceland's ongoing geological story—a narrative written in stone, water, and time across millions of years. For those seeking to understand Iceland beyond its more famous attractions, Hengifoss provides an intimate encounter with the fundamental forces that continue shaping this extraordinary island.

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