Heimaey (Vestmannaeyjar): The Island That Survived

In the early hours of 23 January 1973, the earth split open on Heimaey, the only inhabited island in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago. What followed was one of Iceland's most dramatic volcanic episodes and, remarkably, one of its greatest triumphs of human determination. Today, this 13.4 square kilometre island off Iceland's south coast stands as testament to the resilience of both nature and the 4,400 souls who call it home.

Heimaey's story of survival has made it one of Iceland's most compelling destinations, offering visitors a unique blend of recent volcanic drama, thousand-year-old history, and some of the North Atlantic's most spectacular wildlife encounters. This is no ordinary Icelandic island – this is where fire and ice met human ingenuity, and where both the forces of destruction and creation remain visible in equal measure.

The Island That Refused to Die

The 1973 eruption of Eldfell volcano should have been Heimaey's end. Instead, it became the island's defining moment. For five months, lava fountains shot 150 metres into the air while a river of molten rock threatened to close Heimaey's harbour – the economic lifeline for what was then Iceland's most important fishing port outside Reykjavík.

In an unprecedented operation, the islanders fought back against the volcano itself. Using seawater pumped through specially constructed pipelines, they cooled and diverted the advancing lava flow, saving their harbour and their future. The operation required 1.5 billion litres of seawater and six months of round-the-clock work, but it worked. Today, you can walk on the very lava that nearly destroyed the town, now solidified into a black landscape that serves as both memorial and playground.

The eruption added 2.2 square kilometres to Heimaey's landmass and created Eldfell, the 221-metre-high 'Fire Mountain' that dominates the island's skyline. Climbing to its summit takes just 45 minutes from the town centre, revealing panoramic views across the Westman Islands and back to mainland Iceland's Eyjafjallajökull and Katla volcanoes.

Living History: From Settlement to Survival

Heimaey's dramatic recent history overshadows an equally fascinating deeper past. The island has been continuously inhabited since 874 AD, making it one of Iceland's oldest settled communities. The name Vestmannaeyjar – 'Westman Islands' – derives from Irish slaves (called 'westmen' by the Norse) who fled here after killing their Viking master.

The town of Vestmannaeyjabær, home to virtually all of the island's residents, clusters around the protected harbour that proved so crucial during the 1973 eruption. Walking through its streets today, you'll notice how the town has adapted to its volcanic neighbour: many houses sport traditional corrugated iron roofs painted in bright colours, creating a striking contrast against the black lava fields that begin just metres from the last buildings.

The island's isolation bred a fierce independence and remarkable maritime culture. Before the eruption, Heimaey was Iceland's wealthiest community per capita, its prosperity built on one of Europe's most productive fishing fleets. That maritime heritage remains evident everywhere, from the working harbour where fishing boats still outnumber pleasure craft, to the excellent Sæheimar Aquarium (admission 2,000 ISK for adults) showcasing local marine life.

Puffins and Wildlife: The North Atlantic's Greatest Show

Between May and September, Heimaey transforms into one of the world's premier puffin-watching destinations. The island hosts approximately 10-15% of the world's Atlantic puffin population – roughly 1.1 million birds that nest in burrows along the dramatic sea cliffs.

The best viewing areas require no special equipment or tours. Simply walk to the island's southern cliffs, particularly around Stórhöfði headland, where puffins nest within metres of marked walking paths. The birds show remarkable tolerance for human observers, often allowing approaches to within 3-4 metres.

Heimaey's puffin colonies represent more than just wildlife spectacle – they're integral to local culture and cuisine. Each August, local teenagers participate in the traditional 'puffling rescue', collecting young puffins that become disoriented by the town's lights and helping them reach the sea. This tradition, dating back generations, perfectly encapsulates Heimaey's relationship with its natural environment: respectful, practical, and deeply rooted in survival.

Beyond puffins, the island supports significant populations of fulmars, guillemots, and razorbills. Killer whales and minke whales frequent the surrounding waters, particularly between June and September.

Practical Heimaey: Getting There and Getting Around

Heimaey sits 7.4 kilometres off Iceland's south coast, accessible only by ferry or small aircraft. The Herjólfur ferry operates year-round from Landeyjahöfn (summer) or Þorlákshöfn (winter), with crossings taking 35-45 minutes. Adult tickets cost 2,990 ISK each way, with vehicle transport adding 8,950 ISK for standard cars.

Eagle Air operates daily flights from Reykjavík Airport, with the 25-minute journey costing approximately 35,000 ISK return. Book well in advance during puffin season (May-September) when demand peaks.

The island is easily explored on foot or by rental car – the single main road circuit takes just 20 minutes to drive. Most attractions lie within walking distance of the town centre, though comfortable hiking boots prove essential for exploring lava fields and cliff paths.

Where Fire Meets the Future

Modern Heimaey has turned its volcanic heritage into opportunity. The island now heats most buildings using geothermal energy from the 1973 lava flow, while the fertile volcanic soil supports thriving greenhouse agriculture. The Eldheimar Museum (admission 2,900 ISK) showcases houses buried by volcanic ash, preserved exactly as they were abandoned in 1973.

For accommodation, the Hotel Vestmannaeyjar offers modern comfort with harbour views (from 25,000 ISK per night), while the Guesthouse Hamar provides budget-friendly alternatives (from 15,000 ISK). Book early for summer visits – the island's limited accommodation fills quickly during puffin season.

Heimaey rewards visitors who understand that this isn't simply another Icelandic beauty spot. This is a community that looked into the face of volcanic destruction and refused to surrender. Today, standing atop Eldfell with the rebuilt town spread below and puffins wheeling overhead, you witness something uniquely Icelandic: the marriage of human determination with natural forces too powerful to defeat, but perhaps just clever enough to redirect.

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