F985 Kverkfjöll: Ice and Fire at the Highland's Edge

The F985 track cuts a challenging path through Iceland's most dramatic geological theatre, where the Vatnajökull ice cap meets one of the country's most active volcanic systems. This 47-kilometre highland route leads to Kverkfjöll, a remarkable mountain range where glacial ice and geothermal fury create landscapes so otherworldly they've served as training grounds for astronauts preparing for lunar missions.

The Route to Iceland's Hidden Volcano

F985 branches north from the F88 Sprengisandur route at Tómasarhagi, immediately announcing its serious intentions with river crossings and volcanic scree fields. The track demands a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle, climbing steadily through the Kverkfjöll massif towards the edge of Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier by volume.

The journey begins at 650 metres above sea level and climbs to over 1,200 metres, traversing terrain that shifts from black volcanic desert to glacial moraine fields. River crossings at Jökulsá á Fjöllum's tributaries require careful navigation, particularly during spring melt or after heavy rainfall. The track's condition varies dramatically with weather and season—what appears manageable in dry conditions can become impassable within hours of a storm.

Getting There and Timing

Access to F985 is strictly seasonal, typically opening between late June and September, though conditions vary yearly. The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration (Vegagerðin) monitors highland routes closely, and F985 often remains closed longer than more popular F-roads due to its exposure to glacial weather systems.

From Reykjavík, the journey spans approximately 280 kilometres via the F35 Kjölur route to connect with F88, then continuing to the F985 junction. Allow a full day for the drive from the capital, factoring in the challenging final 47 kilometres to Kverkfjöll itself.

Mountain huts at Sigurðarskáli provide essential accommodation, operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Association). Booking is mandatory during peak season (July-August), with beds costing 8,900 ISK (€62) per night for members, 11,900 ISK (€83) for non-members.

Where Ice Meets Fire

Kverkfjöll represents one of Iceland's most active volcanic systems, lying directly beneath the northwestern edge of Vatnajökull glacier. This unique positioning creates extraordinary phenomena: ice caves carved by geothermal heat, steaming vents emerging from glacial crevasses, and the constant tension between volcanic warming and glacial cooling.

The mountain range reaches 1,929 metres at its highest point, Kverkfjöll proper, though the entire volcanic system stretches over 100 square kilometres. Beneath the ice, a substantial magma chamber feeds numerous geothermal areas, creating a complex network of hot springs, fumaroles, and the famous Kverkfjöll ice caves.

The Ice Caves of Kverkfjöll

The geothermal ice caves represent Kverkfjöll's crown jewel—natural galleries carved by volcanic heat through glacial ice. These caves form where geothermal activity melts the glacier from beneath, creating caverns with walls of ancient, compressed ice displaying brilliant blue hues.

Access requires proper equipment and expertise. The caves' entrances often lie hidden beneath fresh snow or disguised by glacial debris. Inside, temperatures hover just above freezing despite the geothermal influence, whilst outside conditions can plummet to -20°C even in summer. Cave exploration demands helmets, proper lighting, warm clothing, and ideally, local guide knowledge.

The caves' configurations change constantly as geothermal activity waxes and wanes, and glacial movements reshape the passages. What existed in previous seasons may have collapsed, melted, or reformed entirely.

Geological Significance

Kverkfjöll sits within the Northern Volcanic Zone, part of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge system that bisects Iceland. The volcanic system has erupted repeatedly throughout recorded history, with significant eruptions in 1717, 1729, and 1968. The 1968 eruption proved particularly dramatic, creating spectacular ice cauldrons as subglacial volcanic activity melted massive quantities of glacial ice.

The area demonstrates textbook examples of subglacial volcanism, where eruptions beneath ice caps create unique geological formations. Pillow lavas formed by rapid cooling, hyaloclastite deposits from explosive water-magma interactions, and table mountains (tuyas) showcase the complex relationship between volcanic and glacial processes.

Recent volcanic activity continues beneath Vatnajökull, with regular seismic monitoring detecting ongoing magma movements. The Icelandic Met Office maintains seismometers throughout the region, contributing crucial data to volcanic hazard assessment for populated areas downstream.

Highland Adventures and Challenges

Beyond the geological marvels, F985 offers access to serious highland hiking and mountaineering. The Kverkfjöll traverse connects multiple peaks across challenging terrain, whilst shorter day hikes explore geothermal areas and glacial margins.

The Kverkfjöll-to-Askja hiking route represents one of Iceland's most demanding highland treks, covering 75 kilometres across volcanic desert, active geothermal zones, and river crossings. This 4-5 day expedition requires extensive preparation, emergency communication devices, and detailed weather monitoring.

Safety Considerations

Highland travel in the Kverkfjöll region demands serious preparation. Weather changes rapidly, with sudden storms capable of reducing visibility to metres and dropping temperatures precipitously. The combination of glacial proximity and high altitude creates unique hazards.

Essential safety equipment includes GPS navigation systems (mobile coverage is nonexistent), emergency shelter, extra food and fuel, first aid supplies, and satellite communication devices. Registration with ICE-SAR (Iceland Search and Rescue) is strongly recommended for extended visits.

River crossings present significant seasonal hazards. Glacial outburst floods (jökulhlaups) can transform manageable streams into raging torrents with little warning. Always check current conditions with wardens at Sigurðarskáli before attempting crossings.

Planning Your Highland Expedition

F985 and the Kverkfjöll region reward careful planning and respect for highland conditions. The mountain huts at Sigurðarskáli provide the only reliable accommodation, offering dormitory beds, cooking facilities, and crucial local knowledge from resident wardens.

Fuel availability is nonexistent beyond the last service stations on Ring Road approaches. Carry sufficient fuel for the entire highland circuit, plus emergency reserves. Food supplies must be transported from lowland towns—the nearest significant shops lie in Akureyri or Egilsstaðir, both over 200 kilometres from Kverkfjöll.

The brief highland season intensifies demand for accommodation and creates crowded conditions at popular sites. Visiting during shoulder season (late June or early September) offers better solitude but requires additional preparation for uncertain weather and track conditions.

For those seeking Iceland's most dramatic intersection of ice and fire, F985 delivers unparalleled access to active geology and pristine highland wilderness. The route demands respect, preparation, and proper equipment, but rewards adventurous travellers with experiences found nowhere else on Earth.

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