F905 Arnardalsleið: The Herðubreið Approach

The F905 Arnardalsleið stands as one of Iceland's most dramatic highland approaches, carving a 47-kilometre path through the Ódáðahraun lava field to reach the base of Herðubreið, Iceland's "Queen of Mountains." This challenging F-road offers adventurous drivers the chance to witness some of the country's most pristine volcanic landscapes whilst approaching one of its most iconic peaks from the north.

Route Overview and Access

F905 branches southeast from the Ring Road (Route 1) approximately 32 kilometres east of Mývatn, marked clearly at the turn-off near the Jökulsá á Fjöllum bridge. The road immediately plunges into the Ódáðahraun, one of Iceland's largest and most forbidding lava fields, created by eruptions from the Askja volcanic system over the past 10,000 years.

The route demands a capable 4WD vehicle with high clearance. River crossings, including the substantial Jökulsá á Fjöllum ford at kilometre 23, require experienced highland driving. The river crossing can be particularly treacherous during periods of high water, typically following heavy rainfall or warm spells that increase glacial melt from Vatnajökull.

From the Ring Road junction, the first 15 kilometres traverse relatively gentle terrain as you penetrate deeper into the highland wilderness. The landscape here consists of ancient lava flows, their surfaces now softened by millennia of wind erosion and sparse vegetation.

The Ódáðahraun Traverse

The name Ódáðahraun translates to "evil deeds lava field," a reference both to its forbidding nature and its historical role as a refuge for outlaws during medieval times. This 4,500-square-kilometre expanse of volcanic rock represents one of Europe's largest lava fields, created primarily by fissure eruptions from the Askja system.

As F905 winds through this lunar landscape, drivers encounter a constantly changing tapestry of lava formations. Ropy pāhoehoe flows alternate with rougher ʻaʻā surfaces, whilst occasional pseudocraters punctuate the horizon. These rootless cones, formed when lava flowed over wet ground, create distinctive geometric patterns across the plain.

The road quality varies considerably throughout this section. Well-maintained stretches of graded track give way to rough, rocky passages where careful navigation becomes essential. Average speeds rarely exceed 30 km/h, making the journey a test of both vehicle capability and driver patience.

Herðubreið's Magnificent Approach

Beyond the major river crossing, F905 begins its final approach to Herðubreið. The mountain, rising 1,682 metres above sea level, gradually dominates the southern horizon. This table mountain, or tuya, formed beneath glacial ice during the last ice age, creating its distinctive flat-topped profile and steep-sided flanks.

The geological story of Herðubreið unfolds as you draw closer. Its lower slopes consist of pillow basalts and breccias, formed by subglacial eruptions, whilst the flat summit plateau represents subarial lava flows that occurred as the mountain finally emerged above the ice sheet. This classic tuya formation makes Herðubreið a textbook example of ice-volcano interaction.

At kilometre 38, the road passes Herðubreiðarlindir, an oasis-like spring system at the mountain's base. This area, protected as a nature reserve, supports surprisingly lush vegetation fed by groundwater emerging from beneath the lava field. The springs maintain a constant temperature of approximately 6°C year-round, creating a microclimate that supports Arctic willow, birch scrub, and during summer, a remarkable display of highland flowers.

The Outlaw's Refuge

Herðubreiðarlindir holds particular significance in Icelandic literature and history as the refuge of Fjalla-Eyvindur, perhaps Iceland's most famous outlaw. Eyvindur Jónsson and his wife Halla lived in the highland wilderness for 20 years during the 18th century, using the springs area as their primary base. The remains of their stone shelter can still be visited, testament to human resilience in this harsh environment.

The couple's story, immortalised in Jóhann Sigurjónsson's play "Fjalla-Eyvindur," represents the ultimate tale of survival against overwhelming odds. During their decades of exile, they developed intimate knowledge of the highland weather patterns, animal behaviour, and seasonal changes that allowed them to survive where others would perish.

Practical Considerations

F905 typically opens between mid-June and early October, though conditions vary significantly year to year. The Icelandic Road Administration (Vegagerðin) provides current road status through their website and the 1777 phone service. Even during the official open season, weather conditions can change rapidly, making preparation essential.

Fuel availability becomes critical when venturing onto F905. The nearest petrol station lies back in Reykjahlíð near Mývatn, approximately 80 kilometres from the route's end at Herðubreiðarlindir. Most vehicles should carry additional fuel in jerry cans, as the return journey, combined with potential detours or extended idling, can easily exceed normal range expectations.

Emergency equipment represents more than mere preparation—it constitutes essential survival gear. GPS devices, paper maps, emergency food supplies, warm clothing, and communication equipment all become vital when venturing into this remote region. Mobile phone coverage exists sporadically along the route but cannot be relied upon for emergency communication.

Wildlife and Photography

The Ódáðahraun might appear desolate, but it supports remarkable wildlife adapted to highland conditions. Pink-footed geese use the area as a moulting ground during summer, whilst ptarmigan inhabit the more vegetated areas near springs and streams. Arctic foxes patrol the lava field, hunting for unwary birds and small mammals.

Photography opportunities along F905 rank among Iceland's finest. The interplay between volcanic textures, distant mountains, and ever-changing weather creates constantly evolving compositions. Early morning and late evening light transforms the dark lava into warm, glowing surfaces whilst emphasising the dramatic relief of surrounding peaks.

The approach to Herðubreið offers particularly spectacular photographic opportunities. The mountain's pyramid profile, framed against often dramatic skies, has graced countless Iceland travel publications. However, the real photographic treasures lie in the smaller details: the intricate textures of different lava types, the surprising plant communities at Herðubreiðarlindir, and the play of light and shadow across the vast Ódáðahraun expanse.

F905 Arnardalsleið represents highland driving at its most challenging and rewarding. Those who successfully navigate its demands gain access to some of Iceland's most pristine volcanic landscapes and the chance to stand beneath one of the country's most iconic mountains. The journey requires serious preparation and capable equipment, but rewards the well-prepared traveller with experiences unavailable anywhere else on Earth.

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