F839 Leirdalsheiðarvegur: The Northern Interior Road

The F839 Leirdalsheiðarvegur represents one of Iceland's most challenging and rewarding highland crossings, carving a spectacular 47-kilometre route through the northern interior between the Sprengisandur and Kjölur highland routes. This remote mountain road connects the Leirdalur valley in the west with the Blanda river system in the east, offering intrepid travellers access to some of Iceland's most pristine wilderness areas and geological wonders.

Route Overview and Access

F839 begins at its western terminus near the abandoned Leirdalur farm, accessible via Route 550 (Kaldidalsvegur) approximately 15 kilometres south of its junction with the Ring Road. The eastern approach connects to F35 (Kjalvegur) near the Blanda river crossing, placing it within the broader network of highland tracks that traverse Iceland's interior plateau.

The road reaches its highest point at 650 metres above sea level as it crosses the Leirdalsheiði plateau, a stark highland landscape characterised by volcanic debris fields, ancient lava formations, and sweeping mountain vistas. Unlike the more frequented Kjölur or Sprengisandur routes, F839 sees minimal traffic, making it essential to travel in convoy with other vehicles or ensure robust communication equipment.

Geological Significance

The route traverses terrain shaped by millennia of volcanic activity and glacial erosion. The Leirdalsheiði plateau sits within the Western Volcanic Zone, where evidence of past eruptions creates a landscape of remarkable geological diversity. Travellers encounter extensive lava fields dating from various periods, including formations from the medieval period that would have been witnessed by Iceland's early settlers.

The eastern section of the route provides access to the Hofsjökull glacier system's northern outlets, where glacial rivers have carved deep valleys through the volcanic substrate. These braided river systems, including tributaries of the Blanda, demonstrate the ongoing interaction between ice and volcanic rock that defines Iceland's highland geography.

Navigation and Road Conditions

F839 demands serious preparation and suitable vehicles. The track varies from rough gravel sections to challenging river crossings, with at least three significant fords that can become impassable during periods of heavy rainfall or glacial melt. The largest crossing occurs approximately 28 kilometres from the western terminus, where the road encounters a substantial tributary of the Blanda system.

GPS coordinates prove essential, as traditional road markers are sparse or absent entirely. Weather conditions can deteriorate rapidly, with visibility dropping to mere metres during fog or precipitation. Snow can persist well into July at higher elevations, making the route typically accessible only from late June through early September.

Wildlife and Natural Features

The isolation of F839 creates excellent opportunities for wildlife observation. Arctic foxes maintain territories throughout the region, whilst pink-footed geese utilise the area during summer breeding season. The route passes through prime ptarmigan habitat, and golden plovers nest in the expansive highland meadows during the brief summer months.

Botanically, the area supports specialized highland flora adapted to harsh conditions and short growing seasons. Mountain avens, Arctic willow, and various moss species create subtle but remarkable displays of colour against the predominantly mineral landscape. The eastern sections, benefiting from increased moisture from glacial runoff, support more diverse plant communities.

Historical Context

The Leirdalur valley holds historical significance as one of Iceland's abandoned settlement areas. Archaeological evidence suggests continuous habitation from the settlement period through the early 20th century, when harsh conditions finally forced the last residents to relocate to more hospitable regions. Stone foundations and field boundaries remain visible, testament to centuries of determined farming in marginal conditions.

The route itself follows traditional highland paths used for centuries by travellers crossing between northern and western Iceland. These tracks served as vital connections during periods when coastal routes proved impassable due to weather or political circumstances.

Practical Considerations

Fuel consumption increases significantly on highland routes due to challenging terrain and constant gear changes. Vehicles should begin the crossing with full fuel tanks, as the nearest fuel stations lie over 100 kilometres away in either direction. Spare fuel containers are recommended for vehicles with limited range.

Essential equipment includes recovery gear (tow straps, shovels, and traction aids), comprehensive first aid supplies, emergency food and water for several days, and reliable communication equipment. Mobile phone coverage is non-existent throughout most of the route.

The Icelandic Road Administration typically opens F839 in late June, though conditions vary annually depending on winter snowfall and spring thaw patterns. Current road status information is available through Vegagerðin (road.is) and should be consulted immediately before departure.

Recommended Itinerary

F839 works best as part of a comprehensive highland circuit rather than a standalone destination. Many travellers combine it with sections of Kjölur or Sprengisandur to create multi-day highland expeditions. The crossing itself requires 4-6 hours depending on conditions and stops, though weather delays can extend this considerably.

Camping is possible at various points along the route, though designated facilities do not exist. Leave No Trace principles are particularly important in this pristine environment. The nearest accommodation lies at Húsafell to the west or Kerlingarfjöll to the east, both requiring significant detours from the main route.

F839 Leirdalsheiðarvegur rewards prepared travellers with an authentic taste of Iceland's highland wilderness, far from the crowds that characterise more accessible destinations. Its combination of geological interest, historical significance, and raw natural beauty makes it a standout choice for serious highland explorers seeking genuine adventure in one of Europe's last great wilderness areas.

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