F586 Haukadalsskarðsvegur: The Valley Head Road

The F586 Haukadalsskarðsvegur stands as one of Iceland's most challenging yet rewarding highland routes, carving a dramatic path through the remote wilderness between Kjölur and the western highlands. This 28-kilometre mountain track connects the F35 Kjölur route with the Borgarfjörður region, offering intrepid travellers access to some of Iceland's most pristine and untouched landscapes.

Route Overview and Geography

F586 begins its journey at the intersection with F35, approximately 15 kilometres south of Hveravellir geothermal area. The road climbs steadily through Haukadalsskarð pass, reaching elevations of over 700 metres before descending into the Haukadalur valley system—not to be confused with the famous Haukadalur in the Golden Circle.

The route traverses diverse terrain, from barren highland plateaux to verdant valley floors carved by glacial action during the last Ice Age. The road's name, Haukadalsskarðsvegur, literally translates to "Hawk Valley Pass Road," a reference to the gyrfalcons that nest in the steep cliffs flanking the route during summer months.

Geological Significance

The F586 crosses fascinating geological formations dating back millions of years. The road cuts through layers of basalt and rhyolite, evidence of Iceland's violent volcanic past. The Haukadalsskarð pass itself represents a classic example of glacial erosion, where ice carved deep channels through volcanic rock during successive ice ages.

Particularly noteworthy are the columnar basalt formations visible from several points along the route. These hexagonal rock columns, formed by rapid cooling of lava flows, create dramatic cliff faces that rise up to 200 metres above the valley floor. Geologists have identified rock samples along this route dating back 3.2 million years, making it one of Iceland's older geological formations.

Driving Conditions and Vehicle Requirements

F586 demands serious preparation and an appropriate vehicle. The route requires a robust 4WD with high clearance—standard rental cars are strictly prohibited and insurance will not cover damage. River crossings, though not as numerous as other highland routes, still present significant challenges, particularly the Fossá crossing at kilometre 18.

The road surface varies dramatically from loose volcanic scree to boggy sections that can trap unprepared vehicles. Tyre pressure adjustments are essential, typically reducing to 1.2-1.5 bar for better flotation over soft surfaces. Experienced highland drivers recommend carrying a compressor, recovery boards, and emergency communication device.

Weather conditions change rapidly at altitude, with snow possible even in July and August. Visibility can drop to mere metres during sudden fog banks, making GPS navigation critical as road markers are sparse beyond the initial 10 kilometres.

Wildlife and Natural Highlights

The relative isolation of F586 creates exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities. Arctic foxes patrol these highlands year-round, their populations supported by abundant ptarmigan and ground-nesting birds. During summer months (June-August), the area hosts significant populations of pink-footed geese and whooper swans.

The gyrfalcons that give the route its name nest in cliff crevices along the pass. These magnificent raptors, Iceland's national bird, can be observed hunting from May through September. Birdwatchers should bring powerful binoculars as the falcons maintain considerable distance from the road.

Flora along F586 showcases remarkable adaptation to harsh conditions. The rare glacier buttercup (Ranunculus glacialis) blooms in protected hollows, whilst extensive carpets of arctic willow provide autumn colour from mid-August. Botanists particularly prize the area for its pristine populations of Icelandic moss species found nowhere else in Europe.

Historical Context

F586 follows ancient highland paths used by Icelandic travellers for over 800 years. Medieval sagas reference journeys through "Haukaskarð," describing the pass as a crucial link between coastal settlements and inland grazing areas. Archaeological evidence suggests seasonal camps were established along this route during the Commonwealth period (930-1262 AD).

The modern road was surveyed in 1964 but not completed until 1978, when highland rescue teams required better access to this remote region. Construction proved extraordinarily challenging, requiring specialised equipment transported by helicopter to cut through the hardest rock sections.

Planning Your Journey

Best Time to Visit

F586 typically opens between late June and early July, depending on snowmelt and river conditions. The optimal window runs from mid-July through early September, when river levels are most manageable and weather patterns relatively stable. The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration updates highland road conditions daily at road.is.

Access and Connections

The most practical approach involves driving the F35 Kjölur route from either Gullfoss (117 kilometres to F586 junction) or Blönduós (95 kilometres to junction). Both approaches require F-road capable vehicles and careful fuel planning—the nearest petrol stations are at Gullfoss or Varmahlíð.

Safety Considerations

Solo travel on F586 is inadvisable. The route sees perhaps a dozen vehicles weekly during peak season, meaning assistance may be days away if problems arise. Emergency equipment must include:

- GPS device with offline maps

- Emergency shelter and sleeping bags rated to -10°C

- Three days' food and water supplies

- First aid kit and emergency flares

- Satellite communication device or emergency beacon

Cost Implications

Highland driving significantly increases travel costs. Fuel consumption typically doubles on F-roads, with current petrol prices around 250 ISK per litre (€1.70/£1.50). Specialised vehicle rental from companies like Arctic Cars or Highland Experience costs 25,000-35,000 ISK daily (€170-240/£150-210), substantially more than standard 4WDs.

Conservation and Respect

F586 traverses extremely fragile highland ecosystems where vehicle tracks can remain visible for decades. Staying strictly on marked routes is essential—driving off-track damages vegetation that may require 30+ years to recover. The area falls within the Central Highlands Nature Reserve, with significant penalties for environmental damage.

Wild camping is permitted but requires leaving no trace. Human waste must be buried at least 100 metres from water sources, and all rubbish must be packed out. The nearest facilities are at Hveravellir, 43 kilometres away via F35.

The Reward

F586 Haukadalsskarðsvegur represents highland driving at its most challenging and rewarding. The route offers access to landscapes of extraordinary beauty and solitude, where the only sounds are wind, water, and wildlife. For experienced highland drivers seeking Iceland's most remote wilderness, few routes match the F586's combination of accessibility and adventure.

The journey demands respect, preparation, and appropriate equipment, but rewards travellers with memories of Iceland's most pristine highland wilderness—a landscape virtually unchanged since the first Nordic settlers glimpsed these dramatic peaks over a millennium ago.

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