F35 Kjölur: The Accessible Highland Route

The F35 Kjölur route stands as Iceland's most accessible highland crossing, offering travellers their first taste of the country's formidable interior without the extreme challenges posed by other F-roads. This 165-kilometre highland track connects the southwestern lowlands with the north, threading between two of Iceland's largest ice caps whilst providing access to some of the country's most spectacular geothermal areas and pristine wilderness.

Unlike the notorious F208 Fjallabak or the treacherous F88 Askja route, Kjölur maintains relatively gentle gradients and manageable river crossings, making it navigable for confident drivers in standard 4WD vehicles. This accessibility has made F35 the traditional introduction to highland driving for many visitors, though it demands respect and proper preparation nonetheless.

The Route: Through Iceland's Ancient Corridor

The F35 begins its highland journey near Gullfoss waterfall, branching north from Route 35 at coordinates that mark the transition from Iceland's fertile lowlands into the stark beauty of the interior. The route follows an ancient pathway used by Vikings and medieval travellers crossing between southern and northern Iceland—archaeological evidence suggests this corridor has been in use for over 1,000 years.

The track climbs steadily through increasingly barren terrain, reaching its highest point at 670 metres above sea level near Bláfell mountain. From here, the landscape opens into the vast Kjölur desert, a windswept plateau of black volcanic gravel punctuated by colourful rhyolite mountains and steaming geothermal fields.

Key landmarks include the dramatic Kerlingarfjöll mountain range to the east, with its distinctively coloured peaks rising to 1,477 metres, and the Langjökull ice cap dominating the western horizon. The route passes several unbridged rivers, including the Þverá and Blöndulón crossings, though these typically present little difficulty during the official season from mid-June through September.

Hveravellir: Crown Jewel of the Highland

The undisputed highlight of the F35 journey lies 105 kilometres from its southern starting point: Hveravellir, one of Iceland's most spectacular high-temperature geothermal areas. This oasis of hot springs, fumaroles, and multicoloured mineral deposits sits at 640 metres elevation, creating an otherworldly landscape that seems transplanted from another planet.

The geothermal field covers roughly 2.5 square kilometres, with temperatures reaching 100°C in the hottest springs. The area's crown jewel, Öskurhólshver, erupts irregularly as a small geyser, shooting water 1-2 metres into the air. More reliable is Eyvindarhver, named after the 18th-century outlaw Eyvindur who allegedly used these waters for bathing during his decades hiding in the highlands.

Practical Facilities and Natural Bathing

Hveravellir operates as an official highland hut facility managed by Ferðafélag Íslands, offering basic accommodation in dormitory-style rooms for approximately 8,500 ISK per person (€60/£52). The facility includes flush toilets, running water, and cooking facilities—luxuries in the highland context. Camping costs 2,000 ISK per person (€14/£12), with access to the same facilities.

The natural highlight remains the Hveravellir hot pool, a carefully maintained geothermal bath where temperatures hover around 38-40°C year-round. Unlike the crowded Blue Lagoon, this pool offers genuine solitude amidst the raw highland landscape, though facilities remain deliberately rustic with simple changing rooms and basic amenities.

Driving Conditions and Vehicle Requirements

The F35 requires a 4WD vehicle by law, though the route generally maintains better conditions than most highland tracks. The main challenges include:

**River Crossings**: The Blöndulón crossing near the route's northern terminus can reach depths of 30-40 centimetres during peak glacial melt periods in July and August. The Þverá crossing typically remains shallower at 20-25 centimetres but features a rockier bottom requiring careful navigation.

**Surface Conditions**: Most of the route follows well-established tracks across volcanic gravel, though sections near Kerlingarfjöll can become sandy and require momentum to navigate effectively. Tyre pressure should be reduced to approximately 1.5 bar for better traction on loose surfaces.

**Weather Exposure**: The highland plateau offers no shelter from Iceland's notoriously changeable weather. Visibility can drop to metres within minutes, whilst strong winds regularly exceed 20 metres per second, creating challenging driving conditions even in summer.

Seasonal Considerations and Timing

The F35 officially opens around mid-June, depending on snowmelt and river conditions, with closure typically occurring in early to mid-October. July and August offer the most stable conditions, though these months also bring the heaviest tourist traffic and highest river levels from glacial melt.

Early season travel (June-early July) provides excellent visibility and lower water levels but risks encountering snow patches at higher elevations. September offers perhaps the ideal compromise: stable weather, minimal traffic, and spectacular autumn colours in the limited highland vegetation.

Weather stations report average July temperatures of 8-12°C during daylight hours, dropping to 2-5°C overnight. However, temperatures can plummet below freezing even in summer, particularly during clear nights when radiative cooling affects the high plateau.

Historical Significance and Cultural Context

The Kjölur route carries deep historical significance as one of Iceland's three traditional highland crossings, alongside Sprengisandur and Kaldidalur. Medieval sources, including the 12th-century Landnámabók, reference this passage as a vital link between Iceland's northern and southern regions.

The outlaw Eyvindur Jónsson and his wife Halla used Hveravellir as their base during their remarkable 20-year period as fugitives in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Their story, combining desperation with incredible survival skills, illustrates both the harsh realities and hidden sanctuaries of Iceland's interior.

Archaeological surveys have identified numerous traveller shelters and way-markers along the route, testament to centuries of use by traders, clergy, and officials moving between Iceland's scattered settlements.

Planning Your F35 Journey

**Fuel Requirements**: Carry sufficient fuel for 250-300 kilometres to account for detours and potential delays. The last reliable fuel stops are Geysir (southern approach) or Blönduós (northern approach).

**Communication**: Mobile coverage remains sporadic throughout most of the route. Consider renting a satellite communicator for emergency situations.

**Supplies**: Stock adequate food and water for at least 24 hours beyond your planned journey time. Weather delays can extend travel times significantly.

The F35 Kjölur route offers an authentic introduction to Iceland's highland character whilst remaining within the capabilities of prepared travellers. Its combination of geological wonders, historical significance, and dramatic landscapes provides compelling reasons to venture beyond the Ring Road into Iceland's magnificent interior.

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