F349 Kerlingarfjöll Old Track: The Harder Approach

The F349 Kerlingarfjöll Old Track represents one of Iceland's most technically challenging highland routes, separating casual tourists from serious mountain drivers. This deteriorated former main access to the Kerlingarfjöll mountains demands respect, skill, and proper preparation. While the newer F35 route has largely superseded this track, the old path offers uncompromising wilderness immersion for those willing to tackle its demanding terrain.

Route Overview and Technical Details

The F349 Old Track spans 28 kilometres from its junction with the F35 Kjölur route to the Kerlingarfjöll mountain huts. Unlike its replacement, this route climbs more directly through the mountains' eastern approaches, gaining 650 metres of elevation over increasingly rough terrain. The track's condition varies dramatically: the first 8 kilometres present merely rough gravel with occasional potholes, but beyond kilometre 12, the route degenerates into a boulder field punctuated by stream crossings and sections where the original track has simply vanished.

Four major river crossings define the route's character. The first, at kilometre 6, presents little challenge except during heavy rainfall. However, the crossings at kilometres 14, 18, and 22 demand careful assessment, particularly the notorious Hveradalur crossing where glacial meltwater can render the route impassable even for experienced drivers.

Why Choose the Harder Path

Most visitors sensibly opt for the F35's comfort and reliability, but the old track rewards those seeking authentic highland adventure. The route traverses untouched rhyolite valleys where geothermal activity creates otherworldly landscapes invisible from the main road. At kilometre 16, the track passes directly through the Hveradalur valley's active geothermal field, where steam vents and hot springs emerge from multicoloured mineral deposits.

Wildlife encounters prove more frequent here than on busier routes. Arctic foxes hunt among the scree slopes, whilst pink-footed geese nest in the valley's protected corners. The relative isolation means undisturbed photography opportunities, particularly during the midnight sun period when golden light illuminates the mountains without competing traffic.

Vehicle Requirements and Preparation

Success demands serious 4WD capability beyond typical F-road standards. High ground clearance becomes essential—minimum 250mm—whilst robust underbody protection prevents costly damage from sharp volcanic rocks. Low-range gearing proves necessary for the steeper ascents, particularly the 15% gradient approaching the final descent into Kerlingarfjöll proper.

Tyre choice matters significantly. Standard all-terrain tyres struggle with the loose volcanic scree and wet rock surfaces. Aggressive tread patterns designed for rock crawling provide superior grip, though expect accelerated wear. Carry two full-size spare tyres; single punctures are manageable, but multiple tyre damage has stranded vehicles for days.

Essential equipment includes recovery boards, a comprehensive toolkit, spare fluids, and emergency communication devices. Mobile coverage disappears entirely between kilometres 10 and 24. Satellite communicators or emergency beacons provide vital safety margins in this isolated terrain.

Seasonal Accessibility and Conditions

The track typically opens in late June, weeks after the main F35 route. Highland Rangers assess conditions monthly, but official clearance doesn't guarantee passability. Early season attempts face lingering snowpack, whilst late autumn brings unpredictable freeze-thaw cycles that dramatically alter river levels.

July through mid-September offers the most reliable conditions, though "reliable" remains relative. Morning starts prove advantageous—glacial melt increases afternoon river levels by 30-40cm, transforming manageable crossings into serious obstacles. Weather changes rapidly; clear morning conditions can deteriorate into driving snow within hours.

Navigation and Route Finding

GPS becomes indispensable where the track disappears entirely. Critical waypoints include N64.68389° W19.25476° for the second major river crossing, and N64.71445° W19.31203° where the route splits around a large lava field—take the left fork. Traditional waymarking proves sporadic and unreliable; wind regularly destroys marker posts.

Backup navigation methods prove essential when GPS fails. Detailed topographic maps (1:25,000 scale) show terrain features invisible on standard tourist maps. The Iceland Touring Association's highland route guide provides crucial local knowledge, including seasonal hazard updates and alternative escape routes.

Emergency Considerations

Isolation defines this route's primary risk. Mechanical failure or becoming stuck can trigger multi-day emergencies. Travel in convoy whenever possible; solo attempts multiply risks exponentially. Inform accommodation providers of travel plans and expected arrival times. Highland Rangers patrol irregularly—self-rescue capability proves essential.

Emergency supplies should include food for 48 hours, warm clothing, sleeping equipment, and substantial water reserves. Stream water requires filtration despite apparent purity; agricultural runoff and natural minerals can cause severe gastric distress. Emergency shelters weigh little but provide crucial protection during unexpected weather deterioration.

Arriving at Kerlingarfjöll

Success brings profound satisfaction alongside access to one of Iceland's most spectacular geothermal regions. The Kerlingarfjöll mountain huts provide meals (4,500 ISK for dinner), accommodation (15,000 ISK per bed), and vital facilities after the challenging approach. Book ahead during peak season; the huts' isolation limits capacity to 84 guests.

The surrounding hiking opportunities justify the difficult access. The Hveradalur geothermal valley presents a concentrated wonderland of hot springs, fumaroles, and mineral deposits rivalling anything at Landmannalaugar without the crowds. Multi-day hiking circuits explore glacier-carved valleys and volcanic peaks reaching 1,477 metres elevation.

Final Assessment

The F349 Old Track serves experienced mountain drivers seeking uncompromising adventure. Its technical demands and genuine risks eliminate casual traffic, preserving an increasingly rare wilderness experience. However, the route's challenges are real and potentially dangerous—thorough preparation and honest assessment of driving ability prove essential before attempting this remarkable but unforgiving highland passage.

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