F347 Kerlingarfjöll: Mountains of the Trolls

Deep in Iceland's central highlands, where geothermal forces bubble beneath snow-capped peaks, the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range stands as one of the island's most spectacular yet least-visited destinations. The F347 road, a challenging highland route that tests both vehicle and driver, provides access to this otherworldly landscape where rhyolite mountains glow in impossible shades of red, yellow, and orange against a backdrop of glacial ice.

The name Kerlingarfjöll translates to "Old Woman Mountains," though locals often refer to them as the "Mountains of the Trolls"—a fitting moniker for peaks that seem conjured from Norse mythology itself. This 1,477-metre volcanic range, formed roughly 10,000 years ago during the last ice age, represents one of Iceland's most geologically active regions, where underground heat creates a natural wonderland of fumaroles, hot springs, and multicoloured mineral deposits.

Navigating the F347

The F347 begins its 19-kilometre journey from the highland route F35 (Kjölur), approximately 65 kilometres south of Blönduós. This is emphatically not a road for the faint-hearted or ill-equipped. The track requires a robust 4WD vehicle with high clearance, preferably with some off-road experience behind the wheel. River crossings, loose volcanic gravel, and steep gradients make this route impassable for conventional vehicles.

The road typically opens between late June and early September, though conditions vary dramatically year to year. Even in summer, sudden weather changes can render the route dangerous or impossible. Snow can fall at any time, and what begins as a clear morning can deteriorate into whiteout conditions within hours.

Fuel is non-existent along this route—ensure you depart with a full tank and consider carrying additional fuel. The nearest petrol stations are at Blönduós to the north or along the Ring Road to the south, making this a serious commitment requiring careful planning.

The Geothermal Wonderland

What awaits at the end of the F347 justifies every challenging kilometre. The Kerlingarfjöll geothermal area spans roughly 100 square kilometres, making it one of Iceland's largest high-temperature geothermal fields. The landscape here defies easy description—imagine Mars relocated to the Arctic, painted by an artist with an unlimited palette.

The rhyolite peaks, rich in silica, have been stained by centuries of geothermal activity into a spectrum that ranges from deep crimson to brilliant yellow. Iron oxidation creates the reds and oranges, whilst sulphur deposits paint entire hillsides in vivid yellows. Steam vents (fumaroles) dot the landscape, releasing sulphurous gases that add an otherworldly atmosphere to an already alien environment.

The main geothermal area, Hveradalir, sits at 850 metres elevation in a valley between the peaks. Here, boiling mud pots bubble alongside steaming hot springs, whilst the ground itself radiates heat through your boots. The area's most famous feature, the Hveradalir hot springs, maintain temperatures between 80-100°C year-round, creating a microclimate that supports unusual plant life even in the harsh highland environment.

Hiking Opportunities

The Hveradalir Valley Walk

The most accessible hiking option requires no mountaineering experience but demands respect for the geothermal hazards. A well-marked 3-kilometre loop trail guides visitors through the main geothermal area, with wooden walkways protecting both hikers and the fragile thermal features. The walk typically takes 1.5-2 hours, allowing time to photograph the remarkable colour contrasts and observe the geothermal phenomena up close.

Safety cannot be overstated here. The ground temperature can exceed 100°C just centimetres below the surface, and breaking through the thin crust can result in severe burns. Stay strictly on marked paths and heed all warning signs.

Summit Attempts

For experienced hikers, several peaks offer challenging ascents with spectacular rewards. Snækollur (1,477m) represents the range's highest point, typically requiring 6-8 hours return from the base area. The ascent involves loose scree, potential snow fields even in summer, and rapidly changing weather conditions.

Loðmundur (1,432m) provides a slightly less demanding but equally rewarding alternative, with stunning views across the Langjökull glacier to the west and the Hofsjökull icecap to the east. Both climbs require proper mountaineering equipment, including crampons and ice axes during shoulder seasons.

Accommodation and Facilities

The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort operates from June through September, offering various accommodation options from mountain huts to camping facilities. The main lodge provides meals (expect to pay around 4,500 ISK/€30/£26 for dinner), whilst self-catering facilities are available for those carrying supplies.

Camping costs approximately 1,500 ISK (€10/£9) per person per night, with basic facilities including toilets and running water. The campground's exposure to highland weather makes a robust tent essential—lightweight hiking tents simply won't suffice in the frequent winds.

Mountain hut accommodation ranges from 8,500-12,000 ISK (€57-80/£50-70) per person, depending on room type and season. Booking well in advance is crucial, as accommodation fills quickly during the short summer season.

Weather and Timing

The weather at Kerlingarfjöll can only be described as unpredictable. Even in July and August, temperatures rarely exceed 10°C during the day and commonly drop below freezing at night. Wind is a constant factor, often exceeding 50 km/h, making the effective temperature significantly colder.

The optimal visiting window falls between mid-July and late August, when road conditions are most stable and daylight extends until nearly midnight. However, this period also sees the highest visitor numbers and accommodation prices.

Early June or September visits offer solitude and dramatic scenery, with possible aurora viewing in September, but weather risks increase significantly. Many visitors find the landscape particularly photogenic during these shoulder periods, when snow dusts the peaks whilst geothermal areas remain ice-free.

Essential Preparations

Beyond the robust 4WD requirement, proper preparation makes the difference between an unforgettable adventure and a potential emergency. Carry emergency food for at least 48 hours, as weather can delay departure by days. A satellite communicator or emergency beacon is advisable, as mobile phone coverage is non-existent.

Weather-appropriate clothing is non-negotiable. This means waterproofs rated for serious outdoor use, insulating layers including fleece or down, and windproof outer shells. Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support are essential, even for the valley walk.

The Kerlingarfjöll represent Iceland's highland adventure at its most authentic—demanding, spectacular, and utterly unforgettable for those who make the journey. This is not a destination for casual sightseeing, but for those seeking to experience Iceland's geological forces in their rawest, most powerful form.

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