East Iceland: Fjords, Forests, and Folklore

East Iceland remains the country's most enigmatic region—a sprawling expanse of dramatic fjords, Europe's largest forest, and landscapes steeped in folklore that predates the sagas. Stretching from Höfn in the southeast to Vopnafjörður in the northeast, this 22,721-square-kilometre region encompasses everything from the towering peaks of Vatnajökull National Park to the mystical Lagarfljót lake, home to Iceland's most enduring monster legend.

The Eastfjords (*Austfirðir*) form the region's backbone—a geological masterpiece carved by glacial erosion over millions of years. Unlike the young volcanic landscapes dominating western Iceland, these mountains are among the country's oldest rocks, dating back 13-16 million years. The result is a landscape of profound beauty: serpentine fjords cutting deep into ancient basalt plateaux, their dark walls rising 1,000 metres above mirror-still waters.

The Eastfjords: Iceland's Hidden Riviera

Seyðisfjörður: Cultural Gateway

Seyðisfjörður serves as East Iceland's cultural heart and primary international gateway via the weekly Smyril Line ferry from Denmark. This perfectly preserved 19th-century town, population 668, nestles at the head of a 17-kilometre fjord surrounded by mountains reaching 1,010 metres. The town's Norwegian timber houses, painted in brilliant blues and whites, create Iceland's most photogenic streetscape along Norðurgata and Austurvegur.

The drive from Egilsstaðir follows Route 93 for 27 kilometres, including the spectacular ascent over Fjarðarheiði pass (647 metres), where dozens of waterfalls cascade from the plateau above. In winter, this road requires studded tyres and can close during severe weather—check road.is before travelling.

Seyðisfjörður's LungA Art Festival in mid-July transforms the town into a creative laboratory, attracting artists from across Scandinavia. Accommodation during festival week fills months ahead; Hotel Aldan (ISK 25,000-35,000 per night) occupies a restored 1884 merchant's house, whilst Hafaldan Old Hospital offers more affordable options from ISK 15,000.

Djúpivogur: Pyramid and Puffins

Djúpivogur, Iceland's first official trading post (established 1589), sits beneath the distinctive pyramid peak of Búlandstindur (1,069 metres). This 394-person village maintains an almost mystical tranquillity, its harbour reflecting surrounding mountains in waters so still they seem solid.

The village's Eggs of Merry Bay sculpture installation comprises 34 granite eggs representing local bird species, positioned along the shoreline. From the harbour, boat trips to Papey island (25 minutes, ISK 8,500) visit Iceland's smallest inhabited island, where Atlantic puffins nest from May through August in colonies exceeding 30,000 pairs.

Langabúð, Iceland's oldest timber building (1790), now houses a fascinating cultural centre (entry ISK 1,500) documenting the village's merchant history and displaying works by sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson, whose geometric stone arrangements dot the landscape.

Vatnajökull's Eastern Realm

Höfn: Lobster Capital

Höfn í Hornafirði (population 2,107) serves as the gateway to Vatnajökull National Park's southeastern section and Iceland's undisputed langoustine capital. The town's name means "harbour," apt for a settlement whose existence depends entirely on the sea and ice.

Vestrahorn mountain (454 metres) dominates Höfn's western horizon—a jagged black pyramid of ancient gabbro rock that photographers consider among Iceland's most dramatic peaks. The private Stokksnes peninsula (entry ISK 800) offers the closest approach, where obsidian-black dunes create an otherworldly foreground for compositions.

Höfn's restaurants serve the sweetest langoustine (*humar*) in the North Atlantic, harvested from deep waters off the continental shelf. Pakkhús Restaurant offers seven-course langoustine tasting menus for ISK 14,900, whilst Nýheimar provides more casual options from ISK 3,500 per plate.

Jökulsárlón: The Glacier Lagoon

Thirty-seven kilometres west of Höfn via Route 1, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon represents Iceland's most iconic natural wonder. This 18-square-kilometre lagoon, carved by the retreating Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, reaches depths of 248 metres—deeper than many Norwegian fjords.

Thousand-year-old icebergs calve continuously from the glacier tongue, drifting slowly seaward whilst assuming fantastical shapes and impossible blues. Zodiac boat tours (ISK 6,900, 45 minutes) weave between bergs the size of houses, where Arctic terns dive for fish and seals surface mere metres away.

Adjacent Diamond Beach sees icebergs strand on black volcanic sand, creating nature's most ephemeral art gallery. The contrast between electric-blue ice and jet-black sand, particularly during golden hour, explains why this location appears in countless films and advertisements.

Lagarfljót: Forests and Monsters

Egilsstaðir, East Iceland's largest town (2,303 inhabitants), sits beside Lagarfljót lake—a 53-kilometre-long glacial river lake famous for both Iceland's largest forest and most persistent monster sightings. The Lagarfljót Serpent (*Lagarfljótsormurinn*) allegedly inhabits these dark waters, with reported sightings dating to 1345. A 2012 video showing a serpentine form moving beneath ice generated international headlines and renewed local pride in their resident cryptid.

Hallormsstaður Forest

Hallormsstaður National Forest stretches along Lagarfljót's eastern shore, covering 740 hectares with both native birch and introduced species from across the northern hemisphere. Walking trails range from the gentle 3-kilometre Atlavík loop to the challenging 18-kilometre Hengifoss circuit.

The forest's arboretum contains over 85 tree species, a living experiment in reforestation that's transformed Iceland's understanding of what can grow in sub-Arctic conditions. Sitka spruce from Alaska towers 20 metres high, whilst Siberian larch demonstrates remarkable cold tolerance.

Hallormsstaður's Guesthouse (ISK 18,000-24,000) provides forest accommodation, whilst the adjacent campsite (ISK 1,500 per person) offers Iceland's most sheltered camping beneath mature spruces.

Practical Considerations

East Iceland experiences a more continental climate than western regions, with warmer summers (July average: 11°C) but harsher winters. The region receives less precipitation, making it surprisingly suitable for hiking from June through September.

Route 1 (Ring Road) provides excellent access, though mountain roads like Route 93 to Seyðisfjörður require winter caution. Egilsstaðir airport offers year-round Reykjavík connections (55 minutes, from ISK 12,000) with Air Iceland Connect.

Petrol stations are sparse—fill up in major towns. Emergency shelter huts dot mountain areas, but mountain weather can change rapidly. Inform accommodation providers of hiking plans and carry appropriate safety equipment including GPS devices and emergency beacons.

East Iceland rewards those seeking Iceland beyond the tourist trail—a region where folklore lives in landscape, where silence has weight, and where the country's most ancient stories still whisper in the wind.

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