Borgarfjörður Eystri (Bakkagerði): Puffins and Elves

Tucked into the northeastern corner of Iceland's Eastfjords, the remote fishing village of Bakkagerði sits at the head of Borgarfjörður Eystri like a well-kept secret. With fewer than 100 permanent residents, this isolated settlement rewards the intrepid traveller with extraordinary encounters: thousands of Atlantic puffins nesting on towering sea cliffs, and one of Iceland's most enchanting elf churches. The 71-kilometre drive from Egilsstaðir may be challenging, but it delivers you to one of the country's most magical corners.

The Village of Elves and Artists

Bakkagerði's reputation extends far beyond its diminutive size, largely thanks to its thriving artistic community and profound connection to Iceland's folkloric traditions. The village has become a pilgrimage site for believers in the *huldufólk* (hidden people), with the remarkable Álfaborg—a moss-covered rock formation believed to be the church and home of the local elf queen—standing as the settlement's most revered landmark.

This isn't mere tourist theatrics. Local residents genuinely respect and protect Álfaborg, treating it with the same reverence afforded to any sacred site. The formation, composed of rhyolite that creates an otherworldly landscape of burgundy, pink, and cream-coloured peaks, seems to shimmer with an ethereal quality that makes the folklore feel tangible.

The village's artistic heritage centres around Jóhannes Kjarval, one of Iceland's most celebrated painters, who spent summers here capturing the extraordinary light and landscapes that define the region. His presence attracted other artists, establishing Bakkagerði as a creative haven that continues today through various workshops and residencies.

Puffin Paradise at Hafnarhólmi

Between mid-May and mid-August, Hafnarhólmi peninsula transforms into one of Iceland's premier puffin-watching destinations. This small rocky outcrop, connected to the village by a narrow causeway, hosts approximately 10,000 breeding pairs of Atlantic puffins—one of the largest colonies in Iceland.

Unlike many puffin viewing locations that require treacherous cliff-edge positioning, Hafnarhólmi offers remarkably accessible observation opportunities. Well-maintained paths lead to viewing platforms where you can observe these charismatic seabirds from distances as close as 5 metres. The puffins show little fear of humans, often landing mere steps away as they tend to their burrows carved into the grassy clifftops.

Peak viewing occurs during June and July when adult puffins are busiest feeding their chicks. You'll witness the endearing sight of puffins returning from fishing expeditions with beaks stuffed full of small fish—sometimes carrying up to 30 fish crossways in their bills. Early morning and evening offer the most active periods, though puffins remain visible throughout the day.

Practical Puffin Watching

Access to Hafnarhólmi costs 1,000 ISK (approximately 7 EUR) per person, payable at the small visitor centre. The site opens daily from 10:00 to 18:00 during puffin season, with extended hours until 20:00 in July. Bring windproof clothing regardless of weather forecasts—the exposed peninsula can be brutally windy even on seemingly calm days.

Photography enthusiasts should pack telephoto lenses despite the close proximity opportunities. The dramatic backdrop of Dyrfjöll mountains creates stunning compositional possibilities, particularly during the golden hour when warm light illuminates both the colourful puffins and the striated rock faces behind them.

The Extraordinary Geology of Dyrfjöll

The Dyrfjöll mountain range provides Bakkagerði with one of Iceland's most distinctive backdrops. These jagged peaks, reaching heights of 1,136 metres at Dyrfjallstindur, consist primarily of rhyolite—a volcanic rock that creates the region's remarkable colour palette. The mountains' name translates to "door mountains," referencing the prominent gap that creates a natural gateway through the range.

This geological wonderland extends beyond mere aesthetics. The rhyolite formations create hiking opportunities ranging from gentle walks to challenging multi-day treks. The Víknaslóðir coastal trail, stretching 150 kilometres from Bakkagerði to Seyðisfjörður, ranks among Iceland's premier hiking experiences, traversing some of the country's most remote and pristine wilderness.

Getting There and Practical Considerations

Reaching Bakkagerði requires commitment. The 71-kilometre Route 94 from Egilsstaðir follows a winding gravel road that demands careful driving, particularly in wet conditions. Allow 90 minutes for this journey, more if stopping for photographs at the numerous scenic viewpoints along Fáskrúðsfjörður and through the mountain passes.

The road remains accessible to conventional vehicles during summer months, though a 4WD provides additional confidence on the steeper sections. Winter travel requires serious consideration—the road can become impassable during storms, potentially stranding visitors for days.

Accommodation and Services

Accommodation options in Bakkagerði are limited but characterful. The Alfacafé guesthouse (rates from 18,000 ISK per night for doubles) provides comfortable rooms with spectacular mountain views, while the nearby camping ground offers basic facilities for 2,000 ISK per person.

The village shop stocks essential supplies but operates limited hours (typically 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-18:00). Fuel isn't available in Bakkagerði, making the return journey to Egilsstaðir impossible without adequate planning. Ensure your tank is full before departing Egilsstaðir.

When to Visit

Timing your visit to Bakkagerði depends entirely on your priorities. Puffin enthusiasts must plan for mid-May through mid-August, with peak activity during June and July. Outside this window, the peninsula remains beautiful but lacks its primary attraction.

For hiking and general exploration, July through September offers the most reliable weather and road conditions. The rhyolite landscapes are particularly stunning in September when autumn colours complement the natural rock hues, though you'll sacrifice the puffin experience.

Winter visits appeal only to the most adventurous travellers. The Northern Lights can be spectacular in this remote location with minimal light pollution, but the challenging access road and severely limited services make this season appropriate only for experienced Iceland winter travellers.

Borgarfjörður Eystri rewards those willing to venture beyond Iceland's established tourism circuits. Here, the convergence of extraordinary wildlife, otherworldly geology, and genuine folkloric traditions creates an experience that epitomises Iceland's most enchanting qualities—remote, mystical, and utterly unforgettable.

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