Westfjords: Iceland's Last Frontier

The Westfjords is a region that rewards commitment. The drive from Reykjavik to Ísafjordur, the main town, takes 5 to 6 hours on a combination of paved and gravel fjord roads — winding around the heads of fjords that could be driven straight across in 5 minutes if bridges existed. There are no bridges. You go around. This inaccessibility is precisely what has kept the Westfjords authentic in a way that the South Coast and Golden Circle can no longer claim: the fjords are uninhabited for long stretches, the bird cliffs are extraordinary, and the infrastructure that serves 2 million South Coast visitors each year simply does not exist here. Visitors who make the commitment find it to be the most rewarding region of Iceland they visited.

Latrabjarg Bird Cliffs

Latrabjarg is the westernmost point of Europe and Europe's largest seabird colony — a 14-kilometre cliff face up to 440 metres high that hosts hundreds of thousands of nesting puffins, razorbills, guillemots and fulmars. The puffins nest in burrows at the cliff edge, at eye level, within metres of visitors walking along the cliff top. Latrabjarg puffin photography at close range — no telephoto required — is one of Iceland's most extraordinary wildlife experiences. The cliffs are accessible from mid-May to mid-August. Access requires driving the entirety of the southern Westfjords road.

Dynjandi Waterfall

Dynjandi is the Westfjords' signature waterfall — a 100-metre tiered cascade in a fan shape descending directly into Arnarfjordur fjord. Seven connected falls of progressively decreasing size lead from the bottom parking area to the main Dynjandi fall at the top. The combination of dramatic waterfall, fjord below, and mountain walls on all sides makes it one of Iceland's most complete natural compositions. Access is via a 9km gravel road off Route 60.

Ísafjordur

Ísafjordur is the Westfjords' main town — population 2,600 — and one of Iceland's most characterful urban environments. The old town (Nedstikaupstadur) preserves a cluster of 18th and 19th century wooden buildings in exceptional condition. The town functions as a genuine community rather than a tourist service centre, with good restaurants, a music and arts scene, and a self-sufficiency born of its isolation. Kayaking, hiking, and ski touring in the surrounding fjords and mountains are all accessible from the town.

When to Visit

The optimal Westfjords visiting window is June to August — the roads are passable, Latrabjarg has its full puffin colony, and the days are long enough to explore the fjord distances comfortably. June is particularly good: the roads have just opened, snow often remains on the higher passes providing dramatic backdrops, and visitor numbers are lower than July. September is also viable for those wanting aurora combined with Westfjords autumn colours, but some access roads begin deteriorating and the puffins have left by mid-August. The ferry from Stykkisholmur (Snaefellsnes) to Brjánslækur (Westfjords) runs in summer and provides an excellent entry or exit route that avoids the long drive north from Reykjavik.

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