Seljalandsfoss: The Waterfall You Can Walk Behind

Seljalandsfoss is not Iceland's biggest waterfall, its most powerful, or its most dramatic in isolation. What makes it singular is the path that runs behind it — a narrow damp trail carved into the cliff face behind the waterfall, allowing visitors to walk the full width of the falls while looking out through the curtain of water to the valley beyond. On a sunny afternoon, the light through the falling water creates an effect of extraordinary beauty. This is a short walk — perhaps 15 minutes including standing still to take it in — but it is one of Iceland's genuinely essential experiences.

The Walk Behind

The path begins to the right of the falls when facing them, climbs a short section on the right, and then runs along a ledge immediately behind the waterfall before descending on the left. The ledge is narrow — one or two people wide — and the wall of the cave behind is within arm's reach. The noise is significant: a sustained roar that fills the entire space. Spray is continuous and heavy. A full waterproof jacket is not optional; without one, you emerge wet through.

In winter, the path is frequently closed due to ice — the spray freezes on the ledge creating genuinely dangerous conditions. Signage at the path entrance indicates whether access is permitted. The ice formation on the falls themselves in deep winter is extraordinary — the entire waterfall sometimes partially freezes into elaborate ice formations, creating one of Iceland's most surreal winter photographs.

Gljufrabui: The Hidden Waterfall

Two hundred metres north of Seljalandsfoss, a narrow slot canyon entrance leads to Gljufrabui — a waterfall hidden entirely inside a cave. The full experience requires wading through a shallow stream (ankle to knee depth depending on water level) to reach the cave interior where the waterfall drops from a skylight opening above. Waterproof boots are essential. The enclosed waterfall experience is dramatic and completely different from Seljalandsfoss — fewer visitors venture this far and the cave interior creates an enclosed acoustic experience unlike anything on the main visitor path.

Practical Details

Seljalandsfoss is 120km from Reykjavik on Route 1, accessible via a signed road to the parking area. Parking fee applies. Open 24 hours. The adjacent farm café serves traditional Icelandic food in a converted barn — worth stopping for skyr or lamb soup. Most South Coast day tours include Seljalandsfoss as a first or second stop from Reykjavik.

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