Reykjavik: The Insider's Guide to Iceland's Capital

Reykjavik is a capital city of 130,000 people — smaller than most European provincial towns — that functions simultaneously as the cultural, political, economic and gastronomic centre of Iceland and as the launchpad for virtually every Iceland travel itinerary. Its small size is misleading: the city has world-class restaurants, a genuine arts scene, an extraordinary museum on the settlement history of Iceland, and a nightlife culture that runs until 5am on weekends on the basis that, in a country this small, you know everyone at the party. Walking the old city in an afternoon is possible; understanding it takes longer.

The Old City (101 Reykjavik)

The 101 postcode covers the old city centre — the most atmospheric and walkable part of Reykjavik. The main commercial street Laugavegur runs east from the city centre, lined with independent clothing shops, bookshops, restaurants and coffee houses in a density that belies the city's size. Skólavörðustígur leads north from Laugavegur to Hallgrimskirkja church, providing the classic Reykjavik vista. The Old Harbour area (Grandi) to the northwest has been regenerated as a food and culture district — the Reykjavik Street Food Hall, the Whales of Iceland museum, and the Marshall House contemporary art gallery are all there.

Museums

The Settlement Exhibition (Landnámssýningin) at Aðalstræti 16 is built around a 10th-century Viking longhouse discovered during construction work in 2001. The exhibition layers archaeology, saga history and interactive displays around the actual excavated remains. The National Museum of Iceland on Suðurgata covers Icelandic history from settlement to the present with excellent English labelling. The Saga Museum on Grandagarður provides dramatic recreations of saga events with life-size figures and audio — theatrical rather than academic but effective.

Food

Reykjavik's restaurant scene has become genuinely excellent in the past decade. Highlights: Dill (New Nordic fine dining, Michelin recommended, reservation essential), Fishmarket (Icelandic seafood in the old harbour area), Matur og Drykkur (traditional Icelandic ingredients in contemporary formats), and Braud og Co (sourdough bakery, queue before opening for the cinnamon rolls). For budget eating, Hlöllabátar (lobster sandwiches) and Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (the famous hot dog stand near the harbour, open until 1am) are institutions.

Day Trips

The Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss) is 45 minutes to 2 hours from Reykjavik. The South Coast (Seljalandsfoss, Skogafoss, Reynisfjara) is 90 minutes to the first waterfall. The Reykjanes Peninsula (Blue Lagoon, active volcano, geothermal fields) is 30 minutes from the city. The Snaefellsnes Peninsula is 2 to 2.5 hours — possible as a day trip but better with an overnight stay.

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