Kjölur Route (F35)

Overview

The Kjölur Route (F35) stands as Iceland's most accessible highland crossing, offering a 170-kilometre journey through the stark interior plateau between Gullfoss waterfall and Akureyri. This ancient pathway, used by medieval travellers and referenced in 13th-century sagas, provides the gentlest introduction to Iceland's highland F-roads whilst delivering dramatic volcanic landscapes, glacial vistas, and geothermal wonders.

Unlike the more challenging Sprengisandur or Landmannalaugar routes, the F35 maintains relatively good condition throughout its length and can typically accommodate modified 2WD vehicles with high clearance, though 4WD remains strongly recommended. The route's crown jewel, Hveravellir geothermal area, sits roughly halfway along the crossing, offering otherworldly landscapes of steaming hot springs, coloured earth, and bubbling mud pots against a backdrop of Iceland's two largest glaciers, Langjökull and Hofsjökull.

Running through the Kjölur desert—one of Europe's largest uninhabited areas—this route exemplifies Iceland's raw geological forces whilst remaining surprisingly manageable for highland novices. The crossing typically requires 4-5 hours of driving time, not including stops, making it feasible as either a challenging day trip or a more relaxed overnight adventure.

Quick Facts

**GPS Coordinates**: 64.8000°N, 19.5000°W (Hveravellir midpoint)

**Entry Fee**: None for route access; Hveravellir parking 750 ISK

**Opening Season**: Typically mid-June to mid-September (weather dependent)

**Best Time**: July-August for optimal conditions

**Difficulty Level**: Moderate F-road; high-clearance vehicle essential, 4WD strongly recommended

**Nearest Towns**: Gullfoss (southern access) 35km; Blönduós (northern access via Route 1) 85km

**Route Length**: 170km total

**Driving Time**: 4-5 hours without stops

How to Get There

Driving

From Reykjavík, take Route 1 east for 105km to the Route 35 junction near Geysir. Continue on Route 35 for 8km to reach the F35 highland access point just past Gullfoss waterfall. The F35 then heads north across the Kjölur plateau, passing through Hveravellir at the 70km mark before descending to meet Route 1 again at Blönduós, 250km north of Reykjavík.

Alternative northern access involves driving Route 1 clockwise around Iceland to Blönduós (350km from Reykjavík), then taking the F35 southbound. This approach works well for those already exploring the north or combining with the Diamond Circle route.

Parking

Gullfoss offers large paved car parks with no time restrictions. At Hveravellir, designated parking areas charge 750 ISK (€5), payable via mobile app or at the visitor hut. Parking spaces accommodate approximately 50 vehicles but can fill during peak summer afternoons. Overnight parking is permitted for those staying at Hveravellir Hut.

Access

The F35 requires immediate transition from paved roads to gravel highland track. River crossings, whilst generally shallow, demand careful assessment, particularly after rainfall. The route's highest elevation reaches 670 metres, with steady gradients rather than steep climbs making it accessible to confident drivers with appropriate vehicles.

What to See and Do

Hveravellir geothermal field serves as the route's primary destination, featuring the vivid blue Blahver hot spring, extensive sinter formations, and numerous smaller thermal features. The area's boardwalk system provides safe access across unstable ground whilst protecting fragile mineral deposits. The natural hot pool, Öskurhólshver, offers a genuine highland bathing experience, though facilities remain basic.

Glacier viewing opportunities abound throughout the crossing. Langjökull glacier dominates western horizons, whilst Hofsjökull caps the eastern skyline. On clear days, both ice caps appear deceptively close, their massive scale becoming apparent only when considering they rank as Iceland's second and third-largest glaciers respectively.

Archaeological enthusiasts can explore remnants of medieval shelter huts at Hveravellir, used by travellers crossing the highlands for over 700 years. Information panels detail the route's historical significance and the hardy individuals who braved this crossing before modern vehicles existed.

Wildlife spotting opportunities include pink-footed geese during migration seasons, ravens, and occasionally Arctic foxes. The barren landscape supports limited vegetation, making any wildlife encounters particularly memorable.

Best Time to Visit

**June**: Route typically opens mid-month, though conditions remain challenging with potential snow patches and swollen rivers from glacial melt. Fewer crowds but higher risk of impassable conditions.

**July-August**: Peak season offering optimal weather, warmest temperatures (10-15°C average), and most reliable road conditions. Expect busiest crowds at Hveravellir, particularly midday. Extended daylight hours (18+ hours) maximise exploration time.

**September**: Route remains accessible early month but weather deteriorates rapidly. Autumn colours begin appearing in sparse vegetation. Significantly fewer tourists but increased weather uncertainty.

**October-May**: Route officially closed. Emergency shelter at Hveravellir operates year-round but requires specialist winter expedition experience to reach safely.

Safety

F-road driving experience proves essential, as the Kjölur crossing involves multiple river fords, loose gravel surfaces, and complete absence of mobile phone coverage for large sections. Sudden weather changes can reduce visibility to mere metres, whilst high winds can affect vehicle stability on exposed plateau sections.

River crossings, whilst generally straightforward, require careful assessment after heavy rainfall or during spring melt periods. Water levels can change rapidly, transforming passable fords into dangerous obstacles. Always test depth before committing to crossings and maintain steady momentum through water.

Emergency preparedness remains crucial given the remote location. Carry extra food, warm clothing, emergency beacon or satellite communicator, and inform others of your planned route and timing. The emergency hut at Hveravellir provides basic shelter if conditions deteriorate unexpectedly.

Vehicle preparation should include spare tyres, tools, recovery equipment, and full fuel tank plus reserves. Highland roads prove particularly harsh on tyres and suspension systems.

Nearby Places

**Gullfoss Waterfall** (8km south): Iceland's most famous waterfall marks the F35's southern terminus, offering dramatic two-tier cascades and excellent visitor facilities.

**Geysir Geothermal Area** (15km southeast): Home to Strokkur geyser's regular eruptions every 5-10 minutes, plus extensive hot spring formations and visitor centre.

**Langjökull Glacier** (25km west from Hveravellir): Iceland's second-largest glacier offers ice cave tours and snowmobile excursions from specialised tour operators.

**Blönduós** (85km north): Charming northern town providing accommodation, fuel, and services at the route's northern terminus, plus seal-watching opportunities along Húnafjörður fjord.

**Akureyri** (100km northeast): Iceland's northern capital lies within easy reach via Route 1, offering museums, botanical gardens, whale watching, and comprehensive urban amenities.

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