Kerlingarfjöll

Overview

Kerlingarfjöll is a 1,477-metre rhyolite mountain massif located in Iceland's central highlands, renowned for its extraordinary geothermal activity and kaleidoscopic mineral-stained peaks. Part of a volcanic system that has been active for over 100,000 years, this highland wilderness encompasses roughly 100 square kilometres of multicoloured ridges, steaming fumaroles, and bubbling hot springs that create one of Iceland's most otherworldly landscapes.

The massif's name translates to "Old Woman Mountains," referencing Icelandic folklore, but its true distinction lies in the vivid mineral deposits that paint its rhyolite peaks in brilliant yellows, oranges, reds, and greens. The Hveradalir geothermal valley at its heart contains over 100 hot springs and steam vents, making it one of Iceland's most concentrated geothermal fields outside the famous tourist circuits. Unlike more accessible geothermal areas, Kerlingarfjöll maintains an untamed, primordial character that offers visitors a genuine wilderness experience in one of the planet's most geologically active regions.

Quick Facts

**GPS Coordinates:** 64.6500°N, 19.3167°W

**Entry Fee:** Free access to highland area; Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort charges for facilities

**Opening Hours:** Highland roads typically accessible mid-June to mid-September

**Best Time to Visit:** July-August for full accessibility; June and September for fewer crowds

**Difficulty/Access Level:** Challenging F-road access; moderate to difficult hiking required

**Nearest Town:** Gullfoss (45km southeast) or Hveravellir (35km northeast)

**Elevation:** Base area 600-700m; peaks reach 1,477m

How to Get There

Driving

From Reykjavík, take Route 1 (Ring Road) east for 70km to the Geysir area, then follow Route 35 (Kjölur highland road) north for 45km. Turn west onto F347, a challenging mountain road requiring a 4WD vehicle with good clearance. The F347 covers 8km of rough terrain including river crossings and steep gradients. Total journey from Reykjavík is approximately 125km, requiring 2.5-3 hours under good conditions.

Alternative access via Route F735 from the Sprengisandur route (F26) involves a longer but potentially easier approach, particularly for experienced highland drivers. This route adds roughly 30km but avoids some of the steeper sections of F347.

Parking

Parking is available at the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort base camp (600m elevation) with space for approximately 50 vehicles. No parking fees, but spaces fill quickly during peak summer months (July-August). Additional informal parking areas exist along the access road, though these require care to avoid damaging fragile highland vegetation.

Access

The main Hveradalir geothermal area lies 2km from the mountain resort via marked hiking trails. The path involves a 200m elevation gain over moderately difficult terrain including loose scree and muddy sections near active geothermal areas. Allow 45 minutes each way for the approach hike.

What to See and Do

The Hveradalir valley represents Kerlingarfjöll's crown jewel, containing Iceland's most concentrated and visually spectacular collection of hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles outside protected national park areas. The geothermal field extends across 3 square kilometres, with temperatures reaching 80-85°C in active springs. Marked trails provide safe access to viewing areas while protecting both visitors and fragile geothermal formations.

Peak hiking opportunities include Snækollur (1,477m), the massif's highest point, accessible via a challenging 4-hour return trek from base camp. The summit provides panoramic views across the Kjölur highland route and distant Langjökull glacier. For less demanding exploration, the Kerlingarfjöll circuit trail covers 8km through the main geothermal areas with moderate elevation changes.

Photography enthusiasts will find exceptional opportunities capturing the interplay between geothermal steam and mineral-stained rock faces, particularly during early morning and late evening light. The area's remote location ensures minimal light pollution, making it excellent for aurora photography during accessible autumn periods.

Best Time to Visit

**June:** Highland roads typically become passable mid-month. Weather remains unpredictable with possible snow at higher elevations. Fewer crowds but higher risk of access difficulties.

**July-August:** Peak accessibility and most stable weather. All hiking routes generally clear of snow. Busiest period with advance booking essential for accommodation. Temperatures range 5-15°C at base elevation.

**September:** Excellent conditions for experienced visitors. Crisp, clear weather ideal for photography. Highland roads may close after mid-September depending on weather. First aurora possibilities after mid-month.

**October-May:** Highland roads closed. Access only possible via snowmobile tours or specialist winter expeditions. Extreme weather conditions make independent travel inadvisable.

Safety

Highland driving poses significant challenges including unbridged river crossings on F347 that can become impassable during heavy rainfall or glacier melt periods. Mobile phone coverage is absent throughout most of the access route and surrounding highlands. Visitors must inform others of travel plans and carry appropriate emergency communication devices.

Active geothermal areas present serious burn hazards from scalding water and steam. Ground surfaces near hot springs can be unstable, with risk of breakthrough into underground thermal channels. Marked trails must be strictly followed, and children require constant supervision.

Weather conditions change rapidly in the highlands, with possible snow and temperatures below freezing even during summer months. Hypothermia risk exists year-round due to elevation and exposure. Essential safety equipment includes warm clothing, waterproofs, emergency shelter, first aid supplies, and GPS navigation devices.

River crossings on access roads require assessment of water levels and current strength. When in doubt, do not attempt crossings, as vehicle recovery services are extremely limited in highland areas.

Nearby Places

**Hveravellir** (35km northeast): Historic hot springs and geothermal area along the Kjölur route featuring natural hot pools and a mountain hut. Popular rest stop for highland travellers.

**Gullfoss Waterfall** (45km southeast): Iceland's most famous two-tier waterfall dropping 32 metres into the Hvítá river canyon. Easily accessible via paved roads with full visitor facilities.

**Geysir Geothermal Area** (50km southeast): Original geyser site featuring Strokkur, which erupts every 5-10 minutes, plus numerous other hot springs and geothermal phenomena.

**Langjökull Glacier** (25km west): Iceland's second-largest glacier offering ice cave tours and snowmobile excursions. Access via separate F-road routes from Kerlingarfjöll area.

**Þjórsárver Nature Reserve** (40km south): Important wetland area and bird sanctuary in the central highlands, accessible via F roads during summer months.

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